The first time I visited to London, I wasn't quite sure what to make of the place. It was July 2000, and I was spending the summer studying abroad in Paris. The most distinct memory of my stay in the British capital was my shock at having to wear a sweater (aka jumper') the entire time - it was that chilly! Such unseasonable weather is unheard of where I come from, and it certainly left an impression.

I've found myself back in London this past month while doing a summer internship, and as my relationship with the city has matured, I think I can conclude that warm' is just not one of its defining attributes. Rather, I've found London to be much like the British people - polite yet reserved, and unnervingly difficult to penetrate. Yet the city's grey, unassuming exterior belies a much livelier presence, for lurking behind this formal faade is a treasure trove of culture and human activity that is irresistibly engaging.

Unlike Paris, the culture in London does not come and smack you in the face. It does not ooze out of every little street caf and crepe stand. And unlike Barcelona or Florence it does not have the palpable passion of the Mediterranean. You cannot get a taste for it simply from a pitcher of sangria or a fine glass of vino. No, London makes you work to experience it.

For me, it required getting as far away as possible from the hordes in Leicester Square and the soulless black hole that is Piccadilly Circus. It meant resigning myself to blisters as I hoofed it from Portobello Road down through Holland Park and Kensington, from High Holborn down through Soho to the Embankment and beyond.

I was able to multi-task in this regard with a visit to the Victoria and Albert museum, one of the most pleasant evenings I have passed in London. The museum, FYI, stays open late on Wednesdays, which I thought would be an opportune time to stop by. To my delight, I discovered that not only was it open, but it had rolled out the red carpet. Out in the main courtyard, a Celtic folk quartet was playing, and visitors were sitting around the fountain under the spectacularly lit edifice sipping wine and coffee and chatting with friends.

I spent a good 45 minutes wandering through the campy yet engrossing 1960s fashion exhibit. Now this may not be considered history' to many, but for me, reading all about Carnaby Street, Mary Quant and the swinging days of '60s London gave me such a finer perspective on the whole era. Suddenly, Austin Powers made so much more sense!

And the best part about my V&A experience: it was (aside from the overpriced tea) completely free! That, I assure you, is treat in a place that sucks up my money like some insatiable vacuum. I've repeatedly been told I need to kick my habit of converting prices from pounds to dollars, but I can't help it. And $4 for a single tube ride is too much!

Alas, my current state of academia-induced poverty is unavoidable, and it has limited to some extent my ability to experience the finer side of London living. But I have been pleasantly surprised by how much of the city is accessible to the dedicated but penniless explorer. Turns out all you need to truly get a taste of London is a bit of persistence, and some comfortable walking shoes.