I enjoyed a cocktail or three at The Living Room earlier this year, in the aftermath of the celebration of the fifth anniversary of the opening of the Oxford Castle development. It reminded me how comfortable and well-appointed this restaurant and bar — part of a prosperous national chain — can claim to be. There is even a bed (!) in the private (and hireable) ‘Study’ part of the building where we were. I remained on my feet throughout.

An invitation to sample the new season’s menu there took me back on a first ‘eating visit’ for some years. The event last Wednesday was hosted by the dynamic duo of restaurant manager Tom Johnson and events supremo Sarah Wolsey. Both have been with the company for some years, a fact that speaks volumes for its quality as an employer in an industry notorious for a speedy turnaround of staff.

Chef Alan Watts, too, is a long-time employee. His expertise was evident in the range of his dishes that we tasted in what I am ashamed to admit was something of a grande bouffe. A last-minute jack by two other guests left Rosemarie and me copiously supplied with grub. Couple that with the fact that nearly eight hours had passed since breakfast — kick-off was at 3pm — and you will perhaps understand how we came to dive in so unrestrainedly.

There were cocktails to begin, though I swear that (like Mrs Gamp) we scarcely did more than put our lips to them. Southern Belle featured fresh blackberries and Southern Comfort; Oakheart Sour combined Bacardi Oakheart, Amaretto, lemon juice and more; Gin Fondant — “like a drinkable After Eight mint,” explained Tom, correctly — featured Hendrick’s gin, Benedictine, crème de menthe and cream.

The pictures over on right give some idea of the variety (and quantity!) of the food we tasted. They reveal, as well, the visual appeal of many of the dishes, which I can assure you was matched in their taste.

First up were a couple of well-laden wooden boards from the ‘to share’ section of the menu. The deli board brought some excellent salami and parma ham, with green olives, tomato-flavoured houmous that benefited from the chunkiness of the chick-peas, and baked camembert with rosemary. The tapas board (pictured) featured spicy Mexican meatballs (albondigas), tomato bread, chilli and lime chicken wings, paprika baby squid, white anchovies, pickled green chillis and empanadas — pastries stuffed with (in this case) olives and origano.

My favourite of the main course dishes was halibut filet with a well-judged mussel, chardonnay, fennel and leek sauce. I confess I scoffed the lot, as did Rosemarie with the gammon quails’ eggs and chips. There was precious little left, either, of the chicken breast wrapped in prosciutto or the celeriac and spinach layered pasta with loads of delicious sliced porcini mushrooms.

Puds brought another platter (right) bearing blackberry and raspberry Eton mess, strawberry and chocolate fondue, chocolate brownies and — best of all — rum and raisin crème brulée.

You hardly need to be told there was no dinner chez Gray that night.