SYLVIA VETTA says the magnificent building that once held public records is one of the free delights of London

Elizabeth I and Henrietta Maria lived there and Oliver Cromwell's body lay in state there. The diarist Samuel Pepys worked there and the planet Uranus was named there. It even held the wills of Shakespeare, Napoleon and Jane Austen. Nelson's first of many visits was aged 12, on his appointment as a midshipman.

The rich and powerful, scientists, artists and writers have used Somerset House and you can too. The experience need not cost you a penny. It is one of the free delights of London.

Even if you only sit and have coffee on the river terrace enjoying a peaceful view of Big Ben and the London Eye, your visit will be worthwhile. Give yourself a day and you will discover that its attractions are as diverse as the people who have passed through its noble portals. On the first Saturday of each month there are free guided tours thatfrom the Information Desk. (13:30, 14:30 and 15:45) This will introduce you to the history of this magnificent building, once the Public Records Office.

The one you see now was built by William Chambers in 1775 on the site of the earlier Tudor Palace. The Inland Revenue occupies the East and West wings but don't let that put you off.

There is a fee of £8 to see all the collections. Lovers of Impressionism and of the Omega Workshop will relish the Courtauld Institute Art Gallery.

The Gilbert Collection is showing Bejewelled by Tiffany, which I reviewed earlier this month. The Hermitage Rooms are decorated in the style of the State Hermitage Museum in St Petersburg and they offer a glimpse of some of the treasures of the Hermitage and other collections. The Triumph of Eros opens in November. Its subtitle is Art and Seduction in 18th Century France.

It is an appropriate setting because, in the 18th century, Somerset House was the venue for popular and risqu masquerades. A notorious society lady "appeared as Iphigeneia for the sacrifice, but so naked the high priest might easily inspect the entrails of the victim".

The heart of Somerset House is its courtyard. The Edmond J. Safra Fountain Court is a unique public space. If you visit on September 24 you will be at the launch of the Big Draw, a day of drawing, fun and creativity for all ages with Quentin Blake.

From October 3-15, the Craft Council's new autumn event Origin - the London Craft Fair will house 300 designers. They will sell their wares in a commissioned pavilion in the courtyard. Presumably, the orchestrated fountains that children play in on warm summer days will be turned off. In the winter, the swimming costumes make way for the ice skates (November 24-January 28).

Somerset House is for families, with free art activities for young children. For adults, there are 20-minute lunchtime talks at 13:15 free with gallery admission and 40-minute talks every Saturday at 2pm.

For details of talks and courses for all age groups visit the web site or call 020 7420 9406. Somerset House can be entered from the Victoria Embankment, Waterloo Bridge or from the Strand. A range of food is available from the Admiralty Restaurant and the Courtauld Gallery Cafe. Visit the www. somerset-house.org.uk website or call 020 7845 4600.