I think that the transition from wine drinker to wine enthusiast is nearly always defined by a moment'. I've read the stories and heard the tales of the lucky few who've described their vinous love affair beginning with their first sip of 1986 Chteau Lafite Rothschild, or some other such wine superstar'.

For me, the conversion was rather less grand. It happened in the shambolic cellars of a good friend and private collector in the suburbs of Chartres. For months I had been the grateful imbiber of bottle after bottle from one man's fantastic collection and finally I'd been granted leave to access the cellar itself.

There was nothing fancy about it and there wasn't a trophy wine in sight. Rather, this underground cavern was crammed to overflowing with wines from every corner of France. Nearly all were sourced from tiny, family-owned estates that Marcel has visited while hunting and shooting his away across the country.

The moment' came as I heard his enthusiasm rise by the second as he was able to describe every wine in intimate detail; where it came from, the grapes, the way the wine had been made and the stories of the people who made it. I'd never been so curious or excited to know more and be a part of something that was clearly the source of so much pleasure.

Back home, and plunged into the realities of student living, I became an Oddbins regular. It was the early 90s and the heyday for the multi-award winning retailer. The wine list was innovative, eclectic and exciting and the staff shared that very same enthusiasm that I'd witnessed in Marcel's wine cellar.

In the same way that parents of my generation entrusted our reading skills to Janet and John, my primary wine education was led by Oddbins. Through them I explored the wines of Greece, began to know what the New World had to offer and generally had a jolly good time drinking my way through their fantastic range.

In 2002 Oddbins was bought by Castel Frres, one of France's largest wine companies. Since then the company has lost each of the key members of the original buying team that made Oddbins so successful in the late 80s and 90s. In June 2006 a new managing director took over the reins - Frenchman, Fabrice Bidault; a Castel employee of 20 years standing.

Oddbins have now announced their decision to end all price promotions on single bottles of table wines from September 2006. This is a bold move at a time when consumers are bombarded with wine discounts at every turn and where the appeal of a deal shows no sign of diminishing.

Their decision suggests an attempt to set themselves apart from other high-street retailers, with seasonal themes being introduced and an increase in the range of fine and more expensive wines. The company's belief that customers are tiring of promotions on products that are not of high enough quality' and that they will stay loyal to Oddbins on the basis that they can trust that they are getting what they pay for' will certainly be put to the test with the no price promotion' plan and for it to work the wines on offer will have to be tip-top.

If you can stretch to buying six bottles or more at any one time, you will be rewarded with a 20 per cent discount (so, not quite giving up on incentive buying then!). Happily, a recent tasting of new listings provided an ideal opportunity to identify six wines that represent some of the best that Oddbins currently have on offer.

Domaine de Joy Sauvignon Blanc/Gros Manseng 2005 (£6.49) is from the south-west of France and is a sprightly white with vibrant green pea and asparagus flavours.

The utterly terrific Grner Veltliner Obere Steigen' 2005 from Austria's Weingut Huber (£7.99) should only be bought in multiples of six! Oak-free, it has a striking mineral quality and a generous herbal, fruit-forward palate. There is plenty going on here and it will continue to develop in the coming three to four years.

You wouldn't call De Bortoli Yarra Valley Reserve Chardonnay, 2003 (£19.99) a bargain but it's sexy, stylish and has real star quality. It may be an Australian oaked chardonnay but it is a judiciously made one and that makes all the difference.

As for reds, there was an enjoyable fruit-laden number from Spain in the form of El Quintanal, Ribera del Duero, 2005 (£6.99) that ticked all the Oddbins boxes - cool enough to take to friends, a touch different and not a bad price either.

Slightly wilder and earthier in style was the Borie de Maurel Rve de Carignan, Minervois 2005 (£7.99). Rustic black fruits, with chunky tannins, it struck me as being a wine that Marcel would have enjoyed on his travels.

Doa Paula Malbec, Mendoza 2004 (£8.99) is a hugely likeable, undeniably moreish choice. Laden down with soft blueberry, plumy fruits and mellow tannins it's quite the charmer.