When I was a child the big treat of the week was to be taken to Fullers in Cornmarket Street, Oxford, by my parents, for afternoon tea, which came served in a silver-plated teapot.

A large pot of hot water to top up the teapot and ensure we each had at least two cups of tea was also placed on the table alongside the sandwiches and an assortment of cakes.

As coffee shops began to make their presence felt, the popularity of afternoon tea, served with all the trimmings, declined somewhat. Now Elegant Cuisine, an Oxfordshire catering company based at Millets Farm, Frilford, is placing it back on the menu, in a move proving very popular.

Elegant Cuisine runs three establishments on the farm: the Farmhouse Restaurant, where home-cooked food is always available; the Lakeview Restaurant, which as its name suggests offers spectacular views of the lake; and the Orchid cafe, which is in the garden centre.

Managing director Michael Ashton explained that they trialled afternoon teas last summer and they proved so successful they were making them a permanent feature on their menu.

“We are asking people to book their table in advance for afternoon tea, which at the moment we will be serving on Thursdays and Saturdays.”

Michael went on to say that people are beginning to realise what a leisurely experience tea can be.

“Afternoon tea is becoming fashionable again as it’s something that can be enjoyed by the whole family. It is also something that should not be hurried. Afternoon tea offers a time for conversation while you are nibbling tasty little sandwiches and sipping freshly-poured tea.”

He acknowledges that the ultimate afternoon tea is served at The Ritz, London, in its Palm Court with a mirrored backdrop, impressive marble pillars and pianist. But, as he points out, despite the fact that guests are offered a choice of five daily sittings, which begin at 11.30am and continue until 7.30pm, there is a three-month waiting list. Tea at The Ritz, moreover, costs £40, and if you want champagne too it is £52, whereas it is just £8 at Millets.

You won’t get champagne if you take tea at the Lakeview Restaurant and there won’t be a pianist either, but you will be served some scrumptious little cakes, sandwiches and traditional home-made scones and cream.

Head chef Christopher Blackstock makes the scones and cakes, often baking several times a day to keep up with demand. He makes the strawberry jam, too, using freshly picked strawberries from the pick-your-own. Christopher has worked for Elegant Cuisine since he left school, starting as a trainee and working his way to the top post.

Michael points out that the company is rather like a big family: “We rarely take on agency staff. Like Christopher, most of our staff have remained with us for many years. This offers consistency and team spirit. It encourages staff to take more pride, ownership and care in their work too.

“It also means that the team know and trust each other and, despite the tough tasks, and often long hours, enjoy their work. Our motto has always been ‘If you can’t smile, you can’t work here’, which may account for the many compliments the staff receive for their service.”

On April 29, Michael and his staff will be going all-out to serve a memorable afternoon tea in celebration of the royal wedding.

“What better way of celebrating Prince William and Kate Middleton’s marriage than with afternoon tea. We plan to fit televisions around both the Farmhouse and Lakeview restaurants, so that customers can sit back and relax without missing the wedding. If the weather is good we can also serve afternoon tea outside on the patio,” he said.

Afternoon tea was introduced to England by the seventh Duchess of Bedford in 1840. At the time, it was usual for people to eat only two main meals a day — breakfast and dinner. But after complaining that she suffered a sinking feeling during the late afternoon, the duchess began taking tea at about four o’clock, as this was the time she began to feel hungry — the evening meal in her household was not served until 8pm.

At first, she had a tray of tea, bread and butter and cake brought to her room to stave off her hunger; later she invited friends to join her. By the 1880s, this afternoon ritual had become a fashionable social event, with upper-class women actually changing into long gowns, gloves and hats to take tea in the drawing room.

There was a time when high tea was in vogue too, but this meal, which was served in the early evening, was a more substantial meal, served in place of a late dinner by the middle and lower classes. n To book afternoon tea at Millets Farm Centre call 01865 391169.