It has taken a long time — more than 25 years in fact — but Mamma Mia has finally opened another branch in Oxford. Why it has taken this long is a good question, bearing in mind how popular the original restaurant in South Parade, Summertown, has been with its bustling outdoor area a particular attraction at all times of day.

And, of course, there have been many disappointed would-be punters over the years who have had to be turned away as the place was literally bursting at the seams.

No-one needs telling how much we love our pizza and pasta in Oxford. We have a seemingly insatiable appetite for Italian food — a quick walk down George Street will prove that where there are at least five, all seem to survive quite happily cheek by jowl.

But where most of those are chains, Mamma Mia is our own institution and its reputation preceded it long before owner Jon Ellse decided to wander down the road to Jericho to set up shop near the top of Walton Street.

It sits in the premises of the former Sip restaurant which was always a dark, narrow little place. But now it has been opened out with the familiar trappings from the Summertown site carried over, such as the checked tablecloths and brick bar in the front end, while an extension stretches out the back.

However, there is only one place to sit in a place like this — in the window where you can watch the hustle and bustle of Jericho and wave (certainly in our case) at passers-by who are colleagues, friends and neighbours.

In fact, Mamma Mia sits very nicely in this community, to the point where it seems to have been there for years, rather than months.

The menu is the same as up the road, a traditional mix of pizza, pasta and salads at reasonable prices guaranteed to satisfy even the most hungry of customers.

Eat a three-course meal in here and you won’t want anything for the rest of the day.

We started by sharing an antipasto misto — a plate full of tasty treats including salami, Parma ham, mozzarella, pickles and bread. It came on a large plate and looked as good as it tasted.

Vegetarians need not miss out on this, though, as a special version is also available featuring aubergine, zucchini and artichoke hearts, instead of the meat which I am sure is almost as good.

The third person in the party went for the calamari, which I thought were a little undercooked for my taste. I prefer them crispy, whereas these were a bit soggy and rubbery.

But nevertheless it was all complemented well by the half-litre of Pinot Grigio Blush which seemed to suit the unpretentious surroundings and simple, wholesome food.

For main course, I resisted the temptation of the lasagne, one of the best I have ever come across, in favour of something a little lighter.

I opted for the tagliatelle cremonese featuring smoked ham and mushrooms in a Napoletena sauce with cream. This was rich and satisfying, with the flavour of the mushrooms a particular highlight.

Across the table my companions had both gone for the linguine al gamberoni, which came with king prawns, chilli, rocket, garlic and cherry tomatoes.

This was again a classic combination, widely available, but few come close to the freshness and taste provided here.

As we sat, the place really started to fill up which, given the competition in the area including that other Italian-themed local favourite, Branca, as well as the Brasserie Blanc opposite, must be reassuring for Mr Ellse.

I waved the white flag on dessert, although I was tempted by the affogato — vanilla ice cream drowned in espresso with Frangelico liqueur. But my companions fell for the profiteroles which were at their sweet, sticky best.

So it appears the appetite for Italian food remains unsatiated now in Jericho, as well as the city centre, and I have no doubt Mamma Mia 2 will be highly successful.