For those of you that have been the recipient of a vet’s bill, read on.

My unquestionably brilliant vets (Wendover Heights: www.whvc.co.uk for the curious) had asked me to give a wine tasting as part of an event they were running and had given me free rein to source the wines to show.

When I phoned with the bill there was a momentary pause, followed by a cry of ‘how much?!’ Yeah, well, now they know how it feels . . . Still, as with all things, you get what you pay for and I wasn’t about to serve up anything other than a selection of vinous bees-knees for these guys.

I was slightly taken aback (probably stupidly!) to find myself presenting in a horse barn, complete with real, live horses; the smell of hay and dung lingering assertively in the air and a feed bowl to spit into. Some distance from those ideal tasting conditions that us wine critics harp on about: south facing rooms; clean white walls; free of odours. You know the list.

Unconventional maybe, but it was one of those evenings that will stick in the memory for some time to come — not just for the fun atmosphere but for the top-top quality of the wines on show.

Perched on a 25kg bag of horse bedding I kicked off proceedings with a bottle of the New Zealand Hunter’s Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2008 (£10.99).

It’s one of those instantly-recognisable wines with perfectly-defined aromas of citrus and freshly-cut grass and a beautifully-fresh palate with lots of flavour that persist nicely on the palate.

I was very fond of the Sauvignon Blanc but the star of the whites was, without doubt, the Jurançon Sec Chant des Vinges 2006 from Domane Cauhapé (£11.99). I’d chosen it because I was keen to demonstrate the delights of less well-known regions and grape varieties and this wine, made from Gros Manseng was just the ticket. As people rightly identified, it had more complexity than the Sauvignon and a richer, more textured palate. We all loved the angular quality of the fruit and the mineral, herbal nuances which are the result of six months ageing on the lees. I loved it and I consider it an essential ‘wine-to-try’ this summer.

The Touraine Rosé ‘Les Cabotines’ from Joël Delaunay (£7.99) was another triumph; invigorating red summer berry fruits and upright acidity with a ripe finish and it prepared folk nicely for two top-quality reds.

I’ve written frequently about my personal preference for reds with something of the untamed about them and it’s always great to have a chance to push them under people’s noses! Musella’s Vigne Nuove, Valpolicella Superiore 2008 (£9.99) was an excellent case in point. Hugely aromatic on the nose with hints of sour cherry, cigarette box, spice and a little meaty, it was my idea of heaven.

The punters — I have to say — weren’t quite so convinced. However, when they sampled it they could appreciate how rich the fruit was and enjoyed the enlivening acidity and the ripe, soft tannins.

We all agreed it was a wine for food and there was no shortage of takers for the unfinished bottles at the end of the night.

Last up was the Portuguese Callabriga Duoro 2007 (£9.99) which was an altogether different beast; a more opulent, supple mouthful of wine that had its fair share of fans. I enjoyed it but had rather left my heart in the glass of Valpolicella.

A great line-up of wines with some lovely people: the no. 1 reason that I love the business I’m in.

It’s so easy to become precious about wine and I counsel you strongly against becoming so because you’ll miss out on the evenings like those.

All the wines were sourced at Stevens Garnier, 47 West Way, Oxford, OX2 0JF www.stevens-garnier.co.uk 01865 263303.

To find out more about Sarah and to sign up for her wine postcards please go to www.wine-talk.co.uk