Island in the sun

We roared through crowded, sun-drenched streets, with only a blast of hot air through an open window for respite. Welcome to public transport Malta-style. Forget air-conditioned hire cars. A 1960s Leyland Tiger bus is the way to travel to sample the sights and sounds of this Mediterranean island.

I was once told Malta is "abroad for beginners" because English is one of this tiny country's two official languages. But that's an advantage, and catching the bus offers a chance to chat with locals and discover the island's old-world charm.

The Maltese tell you their country is one of the most densely populated places in the world, and on the east side it's crowded and colourful. Yellow 'Malta buses' fight for road space with ancient, often pristine, cars such as Morris Marinas and Hillman Hunters, and flags flutter on homes.

But the west is largely deserted, with a peaceful, rocky coastline offering breathtaking views of the sea. Malta has long been a popular destination for family holidays because there's masses to do.

First stop for us, a family of three, was the country's capital Valletta, since almost all bus routes start and end here. Built as a fortress after a siege by the Turks in the 16th century, Valletta retains a fortified feel. History lovers will be in awe of the architecture of buildings created by the aristocratic Order of the Knights of St John, who ran the island.

A guidebook is essential and it's best to decide what you want to see before you arrive in the bustling city. Starting early to avoid the heat, we got off the bus at the edge of the city for a short walk to the St John's Cathedral and Museum.

The plain exterior belies the riches within. From colourful marble tombstones on the floor to oil-on-plaster paintings which adorn the ceilings, the cathedral is a baroque feast. This was the premier place of worship for the Knights of St John, and when knights were promoted, they were ordered to make a gift to the church. Treasures include paintings by Caravaggio, created during his 14-month stay, huge Flemish tapestries depicting religious stories, and the remaining cathedral silver which wasn't plundered by Napoleon in 1798.

Outside, we went in search of refreshment for our six-year-old son. Italian food predominates but it's worth hunting out a more typical Maltese cafe in one of the side streets. Iced tea and Kinnie Malta's own soft drink are popular thirst-quenchers and are worth a try. So is the island's lager, Cisk, and the Maltese wines, though most of those are made with Italian-grown grapes. For a cheap snack, try a pastizzi, which is like a Cornish pasty filled with cheese or peas.

After continuing on to the Church of St Paul's Shipwreck (legend has it St Paul was shipwrecked on Malta in AD 60 and converted the Roman governor to Christianity) and a wander around the mostly traffic-free streets, we discovered why Valletta quietens down after midday. As the sun rose, the July heat became unbearable so we beat a hasty retreat. We crossed the city to Floriana, which is home to the Argotti Botanical Gardens. The gardens feature huge cacti and succulent plants, and give panoramic views of Valletta's suburbs.

It was almost deserted and we'd have never known the gardens were there without our excellent AA Essential Guide book.

The sea, however, offers a cooler alternative, and two of Malta's 'natural wonders' make a great play of its beauty The Blue Grotto and the Blue Lagoon.

The Grotto, on the quieter south-west side of the island, is a series of coastal caves which give a turquoise glow due to their rocks. We visited on a Sunday morning excursion and arrived by coach to take to the waters on an eight-man wooden motor boat. Like many of Malta's attractions, there was a steady stream of tourists arriving to take a look. So visiting as part of an organised trip paid off our guide made sure we got there before the crowds.

Malta's coastline is mostly rocky and the caves are set under cliffs reminiscent of the north Cornish coast. Once inside, the water comes alive as the boat bobs on the waves. It's great fun and a chance to take memorable snaps.

Our excursion then took in the small town of Qrendi, where our party was welcomed into the parish priest's house for a cuppa and more pastizzi, served by what looked like Malta's version of the Women's Institute. It was fun, and, typically of Malta, unpretentious.

The Blue Grotto half-day excursion was just a taster though for our next journey a full-day boat trip taking in the neighbouring islands of Gozo and Comino aboard the Fernandes II, a 38-metre Turkish yacht.

Gozo is where the Maltese go for a break and our charismatic captain, Jimmy, gave us a running commentary as we sailed up the east coast. We heard his views on religion and large families, pollution, and a favourite subject of almost every Maltese person we spoke to corrupt politicians.

He dropped anchor at a Gozitan beach, which gave everyone a chance to jump off deck into the water below. OK, so we can't really claim to have sampled Gozo since none of us made it to shore, but our swimming break gave the boat's chef Mario time to cook up a buffet lunch of fish, steaks and salads, which was superb. Full of food, we set sail for Comino's Blue Lagoon for more swimming and snorkelling in its bright turquoise waters. After an afternoon of splashing about and lounging in the sun, it seemed everyone on board was firm friends. It was a great day.

Malta's few sandy beaches are also a must. Because most of the island's coastline is rocky, and in summer the island gets so hot, it's tempting to take it easy and spend days beside the hotel pool. But be bold and go where the Maltese go Mellieha Bay. Mellieha's huge beach was sandy and clean, the waters calm and shallow. Get there before 11am for a prime spot. But even in late July, though busy, it never felt crowded.

Another gem we stumbled upon was the Sirens club near our hotel in St Paul's Bay. Boasting a huge outdoor seawater-filled pool and scores of sunbeds, the club is home to the local water polo team. Again, the people made it special. Sirens was a favourite with local families, especially at the weekend, but holidaymakers were warmly welcomed. Children were friendly, and our six-year-old son made friends more easily there than in the British enclave which was our hotel. Armed with a copy of the The Malta Times to read and a glass of Kinnie by my side, I felt right at home.

We left Malta with memories of the local people we had met, as much as the places we had visited. No wonder visitors keep going back. We will too in a cooler month than July!

TRAVEL FACTS:David Firth visited Malta as a guest of Panorama, which offers seven-night self-catering holidays from £325 to £479, including flights from Gatwick or Birmingham, and transfers. For reservations call 08707 595 595, or visit www.panoramaholidays.co.uk For details of Captain Morgan boat cruises, log on to www.captainmorgan.com.mt