Giving unusual names to wines is nothing new. With so many different chateaux, bodegas, vins de pays and co-operatives to choose from, marketing becomes more difficult by the hour.

I spotted a trio whose mundane names hid their quality.

The first was a 2003, 13 per cent chardonnay from South Africa, called Elephant River. At £2.99 it was a giveaway. It was crisp, fruity with a pleasing aftertaste.

Elephant River is planning a whole range of reds and whites. A name worth watching.

Laid Back Ruby is a 14 per cent, 2002 Californian cabernet, bottled specially and shipped across the pond for the Co-op. It is a winnner at £3.99.

Mind you, its name breaks every trade description. Laid back it is not. It bites back. Don't spoil it with a meal. Settle back in an armchair and see off the bottle. Share it with a friend if you must, but for once selfishness could be understood.

One word of advice: this wine benefits from a good airing and needs a few hours in a warm room.

Finally this week, is another chardonnay, this time from Australia. It is from Southern Star (only someone from Oz would think of such a corny name) but at £4.49 is a bargain. There is a delightful buttery flavour which hides its 13 per cent alcohol kick.

PETER UNSWORTH

What is your favourite oddly-named tipple?

Tell us what you think.