Imagine life without the Internet and the tireless Google search engine that trawls the good, bad and indifferent gigabytes inhabiting cyberspace. Sort of sepia-toned, isn't it?

Had I engaged in a spot of 'surfing' before dropping by at Gashi Gashi in the culinary corridor that is Oxford's Cowley Road, I might have felt a little more confident as I stepped through the door, and would have been able to assume a knowing air as I wielded the chopsticks.

My prior acquaintance with the Land of the Rising Sun's cuisine ran to little more than the occasional sushi tray from supermarkets and a few snacks bought at the Red Star Noodle Bar, further south in Cowley Road.

Some might question whether I was fit to judge a restaurant's credentials with such flimsy training. However, I thought it was no bad thing that I approached Gashi Gashi with an open mind, having never even darkened the threshold of a Yo! Sushi or Wagamama outlet.

Gashi Gashi markets itself as an izakaya, or Japanese tavern serving light meals and drinks.

My friend and I took our places at a dark wooden table, just a few yards from the staff cooking at a long range behind the bar. The sizzle of meat and murmur of the cooks whetted our appetite as we ordered dry Kirin lager and green tea before picking at the appetiser that was placed on the table.

The mix of posters on the walls included adverts for Pokemon characters and film festivals. An Oxford Mail front page was also pinned up near our table.

We were in a good mood as we plucked at the little bowl containing a cold selection of onions and ginger-scented shredded vegetables. The menu was comprehensive and proclaimed that there was more to Japanese food than sushi. This was pleasing, as I wanted something different. We opted for miso soup, seaweed salad, prawn balls, karaage chicken and tempura.

The dishes came individually and did not seem prepared in any particular order. This was a plus, as the Western idea of food being a linear starter-mains-pud process can be wearisome.

The greyish soup came in small bowls. Fermented soya paste was its key ingredient, and it was vivid and herby.

I'm a seafood buff and was eagerly anticipating the prawn balls. The crustaceans were chopped into medium-sized pieces and served in a soft creamy potato fillings, encased in two crispy batter shells.

The prawns were succulent and firm, but the potato threatened to overpower them. The dish came with a salad garnish and two sauces, which I had assumed were the legacy of ancient Oriental learning -- only to find that they were mayonnaise and tomato ketchup. Perhaps that's the way things are served in an izakaya, but a smidgin of wasabi to ward off the winter chill would have been welcome. Seaweed might not sound like a tasty snack, but don't knock it until you've tried it, particularly if seafood suits your palate. It was deliciously slimy and briny, draped over glistening tomatoes and lettuce.

The chicken karaage was presented in long cubes, the spices having turned it a dull copper. The meat was tender, but solid and refreshingly sour, having been doused in lemon and served with slices of the fruit.

Tempura, made with iced water so the wafer-thin batter does not soak up lots of oil, was on the specials board and I couldn't resist ordering it.

The batter was wispy, while the giant prawn and diced white fish (bought from Billingsgate Market, apparently) were firm and fresh. However the vegetables -- wedges of potato, green beans and aubergine -- were also excellent, being lush and, in the case of the beans, almost al dente.

The quality ought to have been good considering the price charged. I had failed to spot the tempura was £13.95 rather than £3.95 -- which seemed astonishingly good value compared with the £4-£6 range of the other dishes -- and when the bill arrived, I sucked my teeth.

The service was generally brisk, but on one occasion my dish was about to be removed even though I hadn't quite finished.

We left feeling surprisingly full. Gashi Gashi would suit diners who want to get acquainted with homely Japanese food and satisfy conflicting palates due to the restaurant's jack-of-all-trades approach, but for those on a slightly tighter budget, the noodle bar down the road might be worth considering.

Gashi Gashi, 96 Cowley Road, Oxford. 01865 200798.