Party Fun at Bistro

The suspicion that this was more than just another Christmas party was confirmed when we spotted at the end of the room a placard bearing the legend: "Good luck in your retirement." It turned out this was the farewell do for Margaret Cuff who retires on Christmas Eve after 32 years as a practice nurse at Witney's Nuffield Health Centre.

It was quite apparent to us lookers-on that the group was having a whale of a time, and especially the evening's honoured lady who had been tricked into thinking she was going to be dining with just a few pals from a business based in the town. It was evident, too, that enjoyment arose not only from the affectionate regard in which Margaret was clearly held by all but also from the quality of the food they were being served by restaurant owner Tim Spittles and his staff.

Some will recognise Tim's name. He and his wife, Fiona Tate, were in charge for some time of the Harcourt Arms, at Stanton Harcourt, and more recently, Tim has been cooking at Greens, at Witney Lakes golf course. Tim and Fiona started Bistro 35 last month in the High Street premises formerly occupied by Clarkes Restaurant, and brought with them chef Derek Wilby, who had been with them at the Harcourt Arms, and his wife, Jo, now working front of house.

Having been converted from the former Clarke's ironmongers less than two years ago, the restaurant has needed little in the way of alteration. Its decor remains stylish and relaxed. Relaxed was how Rosemarie and I felt too during our visit last Wednesday, despite the animated scene around us. Though the place was packed, we were impressed by the efficiency and courtesy of the service.

Foodwise, the meal did not get off to a happy start when R's potato and leek soup turned out to be stone cold. A less honest chap than Mr Spittles might have been tempted to tell us that this was intentionally the case (potatoes and leeks are, after all, the principal ingredients of the classic cold soup, vichyssoise), but he came clean and admitted that the kitchen had boobed in failing to heat it.

The matter was quickly attended to and R. was soon enjoying its creamy (and pleasantly peppery) delights. There was certainly no cause for complaint over my visually appealing starter - one of the night's specials - of little parcels of melt-in-the-mouth smoked salmon served with a sweetish dressing and a salad of mussels and squid.

My main course was equally good - a rack of lamb, studded with garlic and rosemary on celeriac mash, with a thin sauce flavoured with Madeira. If it had a fault, it was that it was rather fattier than the menu description of "trimmed" led me to expect. The vegetables - dauphinoise potatoes, carrots, broccoli and green beans - were properly cooked and plentiful.

Rosemarie was unequivocal in praise for her main course, calling it "the best steak I have ever eaten". Allowed a chunk of the juicy rib eye, I understood her enthusiasm for meat at once so tender and tasty. With its moistness boosted by dollops of shallot butter, it was a pity it was placed on top of her chips, since this had the effect of moistening them too.

The dish was completed by a well-dressed salad and succulent flat mushrooms. The robust rioja was an ideal wine. Puddings were sensational. The sticky toffee pudding was gloriously gooey and accompanied by cream in such lashings that even the Famous Five would have approved.

The excellent creme brulee was served not in the usual ramekin but in a low-sided plate-size dish which hugely extended the crispy grilled topping which is the chief joy of this classic pudding. Having never encountered one like this before, I was surprised to find another exactly the same on Saturday night at Le Petit Blanc, in Oxford.

The Blanc version, however, came without the fresh-tasting compote of pineapple and other fruits which at Bistro 35 had pleasingly offset the sweetness.