So here's the dilemma. New restaurant opens up but doesn't want to be reviewed until it's up and running. Restaurant reviewer is desperate to spill the beans about the refurbished and newly owned premises, even though she knows it's not quite ready for the spotlight.

Solution? Go several times just to make sure you give it a fighting chance and, if everything goes according to plan, brag about it from here to kingdom come.

The venue in question is The Talkhouse in Stanton St John, which I slagged off a few years ago for resting on its laurels, being understaffed and failing to change the menu.

Despite my misgivings, it was always packed because it was so picturesque and screamed 'gastropub'. Then I heard on the grapevine that there had been a big bust-up and things went quiet.

So I was as delighted as Charlie Bucket discovering Willy Wonka's Factory was back in business, when reports of great food and new management came my way.

And while rumours circulate about its new owners, and managers come and go, the discreet service, delicious food and a wonderful setting mean it will be an even bigger success than before.

Unfortunately, a few sacrifices have been made. The Talkhouse is no longer a pub -- it's definitely a restaurant, and the plant pots on the bar tell their own story.

"We don't think our diners will want to watch people coming in here to drink and smoke," our waitress said. But I'm sure The Star, right behind The Talkhouse, will welcome forlorn drinkers.

Our first visit was a last minute dash, and having phoned on the day to secure a table, were found a slot at 9pm.

The place was packed. After a pre-dinner drink at the bar (still allowed) we were shown into the snug and my companion's eyes nearly bulged out of his sockets when he scanned the menu. "We'll have to keep coming back until I've managed to try everything on the menu," he whispered, before ordering the soup of the day -- cream of mushroom -- and the chargrilled 10oz rib-eye steak with hand-cut chips. I didn't doubt him.

I opted for the buffalo mozzarella, vine-ripened tomato and basil salad with olive oil and balsamic, followed by the asparagus and spinach risotto with lemon parmesan and rocket.

All were delicious, the soup and risotto in particular, except the chips weren't hand-cut. The kitchens must have run out, as we got bog-standard chips, which were disappointing. If only the waitress had come clean instead of trying to pass them off as the norm.

But these were the teething troubles I was expecting.

We shared a bottle of house wine and the Talkhouse chocolate mousse with raspberries, and sat back in contentment. The bill came to £56.75 for two.

The following weekend saw us back there with friends, showing off our latest find.

And so it was that the king scallops with fennel and sesame crust, wild rocket and mango chilli salsa were sampled, as was the baby goat's cheese baked in crusty bread with red pepper jam and butter leaves, and a huge bowl of moules marinieres that would have kept Big Daddy happy, let alone 'him indoors'.

Only my cauliflower soup with parmesan let the side down a bit. The parmesan shavings were more like shards and so hard that they didn't melt in the soup.

The soup itself was so thick that the spoon could have stood upright, but as everyone was munching away in rapture, I just snacked on the bread and olives.

The lamb shank with creamed mash, braised veg and rosemary jus, the pan-fried calves liver, back bacon, creamed mash and buttered greens, the beer-battered haddock fillet with hand-cut chips and the corn-fed roast chicken 'n' chips with sage and onion stuffing, bread sauce and roast gravy, were all sampled with delight. They give a proper insight into the food being served -- all the old favourites with a twist.

But again it was the desserts that got people cooing like doves on heat. The sticky toffee pudding was voted the best in living memory by everyone, while I pushed down a delicious portion of chocolate orange pudding oozing with sauce. With lots of wine, the bill was £40 each.

While the Talkhouse isn't cheap, it's worth the money. So did I do the right thing? At least you can't accuse me of idle gossip -- I'm far too indiscreet for that.

The Talkhouse, Wheatley Road, Stanton St John, 01865 351648.

KATHERINE MACALISTER