One of the wonderful things about soup is that you really can make it up as you go, but as Sophie Grigson famously said: “A soup is only as good as the ingredients that go into it. You can use up the various left-over bits at the back of the fridge – but only if they are still fresh and full of taste.” A basic soup recipe can be turned into a satisfying meal that will keep out the cold in seconds if you have a few slices of bacon and loads of mushrooms in the fridge.

YOU WILL NEED 8oz (250g) mushrooms One medium onion One clove garlic 3oz (75g) butter 1oz (25g) flour ½ pt milk ½ pt chicken or vegetable stock Handful parsley – chopped fine Few sprigs marjoram – chopped fine Four slices bacon – grilled to a crisp and chopped Salt and freshly-ground black peppercorns to season Method: Chop mushrooms as fine as you can, reserving four for garnish.

Chop onion and garlic fine.

Melt 2oz (50g) of the butter in saucepan, add onions, garlic and mushrooms and cook gently over medium heat until onions are soft.

Stir in the flour and then gradually stir in the milk and the stock, toss in the chopped parsley and marjoram, season and simmer over a low heat.

While the soup is simmering (it will only take a few moments to cook), grill the bacon until crisp and chop into small pieces. Slice the reserved mushrooms fine and cook gently in the remaining butter until soft.

At this point you can either keep the soup as it is, or zap it into a purée in a liquidiser.

Garnish with the bacon and sliced mushrooms and serve with crunchy bread.