Sir – The various correspondents who criticise Mr Gray’s restaurant reviews (December 31) are being extremely unfair.

Indeed, they are totally missing the point. Having read Mr Gray’s reviews assiduously during my four years in Oxford, I am certain that they are not intended as restaurant reviews, but as very clever parodies of restaurant reviews. I certainly turn to them each week with anticipatory delight, and they have me in hoots of laughter. I particularly enjoy the bits about what Rosemarie and Olive (surely fictional people?) like to eat.

Whether the proprietors of the restaurants which Mr Gray ‘reviews’ find them as funny as I do is another matter.

Nigel Clarke, Oxford