Four years ago I found myself — somewhat unexpectedly — in Ljubljana, Slovenia’s capital. To my eternal shame I hadn’t given any serious thought to their wines and was ill-prepared for the quality of the local wine that I drank during my time there.

My slightly erratic notes refer to ‘claret-like’ reds and ‘elegant, mineral’ whites. I know I was impressed; sufficiently so to bring a few bottles home, but since drinking what I bought, I haven’t re-engaged.

As a consequence, an invitation to taste the Dveri-Pax wines from Gloucestershire-based wine merchant Mark Savage was warmly welcomed.

The 57-hectare Dveri-Pax estate has an interesting history, founded in 1239 by the Benedictine monastery of Admont in Austria who are today’s owners.

It was confiscated by the Nazis in 1941 before being briefly handed back at the end of the war. It was quickly nationalised by the communist government and was finally returned to the monastery in 1996.

The vineyards are situated in the Podravje (or Drava) region directly east of Ljubljana which is the country’s second largest wine area. Given the proximity to Austria and the presence of vineyards on steep, limestone and clay terraces, it is perhaps not surprising that the area is particularly well-known for its delicate, refreshing white wines. It’s always exhilarating to try something new and we got off to an excellent start. The tasting began with a glass of Sipon 2008 (£9.80). I didn’t know (though may have been told before) that Sipon is the local name for Furmint; a grape variety that wine enthusiasts will readily associate with Hungary’s great sweet wines.

I have tasted it in its dry form before but none I can recall that were as good as this. It was so alive with a surprising nettle quality and a fabulous peppery finish. It was quite unexpected and I loved it.

On the day of the tasting I was equally enamoured with the estate’s Sauvignon Blanc and the Riesling (both £9.80). Both shared the Sipon’s vibrant elegance. Mark calls them ‘polite, beautifully balanced wines’ and that is precisely what they are.

At the time I struggled more with the 2007 Sauvignon Blanc which had been aged in new oak barrels. I found it overwhelming and somehow ill-at-ease with itself, despite some brilliantly expressive fruit. I couldn’t see what it may become. Happily, I happened to be passing the shop four days later and the bottle from the tasting was still not finished.

It was a cracking opportunity to taste again and the difference was breathtaking. The oak which had previously seemed like a heavy shroud had melted into the background and the result was beautiful. What a timely reminder that it doesn’t pay to be in a hurry; patience is indeed a virtue.

I am only just getting to know Mark Savage and his wines but I know already that his is a formidable palate — I haven’t tasted anything that he sells that I haven’t liked. I’m happier still to report that in him I’ve found an ally in what I thought was my one-woman campaign to drink white wine with cheese. I thought that more than one of the Dveri-Pax wines had cheese possibilities, the strongest candidate being the simply lovely, fragrant 2007 Traminer (£9.80). I have already earmarked a bottle for Christmas lunch with a little Montgomery Cheddar.

All wines are available from Savage Selection, The Ox House, Market Place, Northleach, GL54 3EG. 01451 860 896 www.savageselection.co.uk

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