It takes bravery to run a pub/restaurant these days, considering the alarming rate that such establishments are closing down across the country. How many people would take on an underperforming establishment and try to put their own stamp on it, spending a big amount of money in the process?

But that is exactly what Mark Greenwood has done at the Bear and Ragged Staff in Cumnor.

For years, this large establishment just five miles out of Oxford city centre has never quite reached its full potential. A succession of landlords have come and gone as, I suspect, have many customers.

But Mr Greenwood is determined to tame the Bear and push what he sees as its ideal location for business, parties and local custom in a happy combination.

He has spent about £15,000 refurbishing the interior, stripping walls back to the original stonework and exposing traditional beams in the belief that modern decor does not suit such a fine building.

And gradually, he says, and despite the economic situation, trade is picking up. It’s a slow process but clearly he is in it for the long haul which can only benefit the establishment.

On this particular lunch time, the Bear was quiet, with just a scattering of customers and the odd regular at the bar.

But there was a warm welcome and, it being a sunny day, we were particularly pleased to be able to take our seats at a table outside.

There were three menus available — set lunch, chef’s recommendations and the a la carte offering a wide choice of food which could be split between traditional pub fare and cusine more usually found in a restaurant.

I opted for the set lunch which seemed very reasonable with two courses available for £9.95, which is unlikely to break the bank for most people.

And, unlike most set menus, there was a good choice of three dishes per course.

I opted for the melon and prawns with marie rose sauce to start, which was small, simple and up to expectation.

But my companion was not keen on the tikka marinated king prawns with mango raita and mixed leaves.

Sure enough the prawns were large, but came in their shells which meant that by the time you have removed them, most of the marinade had also disappeared and there was also no finger bowl.

Had they been been shell-free they would have been much better.

Moving on, I had chosen the IPA battered haddock with hand-cut chips. The pale ale turns the batter a yellow colour but it was very tasty, with accompanying tartare sauce.

The chips were little soggy for my taste and I would have liked some mushy peas on the side just to complete the traditional touch, as the mixed leaf salad just did not seem to go. But overall it was a hearty main course.

Across the table the tuna Nicoise was well received. The fresh tuna had plenty of flavour and was cooked to perfection, while the mix of green beans, egg, tomato, potatoes and anchovies was delicious and nicely presented.

The best was yet to come with what was described as a chocolate brownie but was more like a chocolate chip cake, and really did melt-in-the-mouth with the accompanying ice cream.

Chatting to Mr Greenwood over coffee, he explained his plans to offer customers alternatives such as game evenings, taking full advantage of locally produced food and seasonal produce.

And despite the traditional pub surroundings in a building which dates back to the 13th century, clearly innovation is the way forward.

Hopefully, he will be able to bring stability to this landmark Oxfordshire hostelry.

o Contact: 01865 863329.

Web: www.bearandraggedstaff.com