Head chef Vicky Newitt will never forget the day she made her way up the tree-lined pathway leading to the Weston Manor Hotel, in Weston-on-the-Green, for her interview as commis chef. This enterprising young woman says that the sight of that imposing old building and the splendour of the grounds took her breath away.
Nine years have passed since she walked through the main door clutching her NVQ qualifications in catering and hospitality, ready to be interviewed for this job at the age of 19. During that time, she has diligently worked her way up the ranks and is now the manor’s head chef.
Although the core of the present Manor is 16th century, its recorded history spans more than 900 years, and, like Weston-on-the-Green, it has a rich historical past.
The present Baronial Hall was the bailiff’s court for the Abbott of Osney who owned the house before the dissolution of the monasteries by King Henry VIII in the 16th century. Subsequently, the great land-owning families — the Earls of Abingdon and Berkshire, the Berties and the Norreys — lived at the manor until the death of the last heir during the First World War. During the Second World War it was used by the BBC as a dormitory for their staff and was converted into a hotel in the late 1940s. The present owners, Mr and Mrs Dudley, bought the manor in 1983, and over the years have carefully restored it to its original glory. Their sympathetic conversions were awarded the Certificate of the Oxford Preservation Trust for their contribution to the enhancement of Oxford’s heritage.
It was the manor’s age and history that has always impressed Vicky so much. The thought of cooking in a building that, through the ages, has established such a positive place in our history is something of which she is particularly proud. She is also proud to be the first woman in charge of the manor’s kitchens and the four other chefs that make up her kitchen brigade.
Her love of food and cooking began during her childhood when her mother worked in a school kitchen.
She said: “She arranged for me to do my work experience there, which introduced me to the techniques needed when cooking for large numbers. She also taught my twin sister Debbie and me the basics of cookery in the home. Gradually, what started as a fun thing to do turned into a passion. By the time I was planning my career, I just knew I had to be a cook, never dreaming that I would end up being a chef, cooking 20 to 30 lunches each day and at least 30 dinners.”
Vicky and her brigade also cater for weddings, dinner parties, and conferences. On the day I went to speak to her she was preparing a large buffet party for more than 100. That she could remain calm when it was but 90 minutes before this meal was due to be served was impressive.
Our conversation was interrupted when a delivery of fresh fish arrived from Hayman’s Fisheries, in Oxford. On excusing herself, Vicky left my side to check the order in, examining the fish carefully before signing the delivery note. She orders her meat from Field Farm Fresh, in Appleton, and her vegetables are also acquired locally. All the bread and cakes are made in her kitchen.
The previous head chef, Mike Keenlyside, taught Vicky to run a kitchen professionally. He not only showed her the tricks of the trade, but also encouraged her to work her way through each department so that she understood the tasks she would be required to take on if she moved on to be head chef. He also emphasised the importance of making the most of fresh, seasonal food, something Vicky found easy to accept as she believes a dish is only as good as the ingredients that go into it.
“Because he helped me so much when I started, I now try to help those working with me in the same way.
“I try to enthuse and inspire them. I also place great importance on team spirit. In a kitchen such as this we have to work together as a team or it wouldn’t work,” she said.
Vicky is convinced that despite the long hours, the split shifts, and the heat of the kitchen, cooking for the guests staying at a historic country hotel is the best job ever. She can never visualise doing anything else and advises other young people to consider a career such as hers if they are looking for job satisfaction.
While I was there she cooked her signature dish, pan-fried rack of lamb garnished with spinach purée, aubergine caviar and red wine balsamic jus (see the recipe on the left). Watching the skill and dexterity with which she put this delicious dish together so that it could be photographed was impressive. Perhaps she will move on and become a television chef one day.
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