On the very first trip I made to France, as a green-behind-the-ears wine trade professional, I met and befriended the utterly delightful Richard Doughty.

I was thrilled to meet him for all sorts of reasons: first because of his Saussignac that I have never tired of tasting and drinking; second, he was gracious and kind in sharing his knowledge, and third, he opened my eyes to the quality and diversity of wines that are made in Bergerac.

The French consider Bergerac part of south west France and yet I, probably incorrectly, see it as something of an outpost of Bordeaux.

The vineyards stretch over 93 villages and 12,000 hectares on the banks of the Dordogne to the east of Bordeaux and, despite its scale, the region’s wines are overshadowed by their world-famous neighbours.

This is a real pity because Bergerac offers everything from steely dry whites to claret-like reds and sumptuous sweeties at very competitive prices.

The region is made up of thirteen appellations (AOCs) and, whilst you do not need to know them all, it is useful to be familiar with some.

You will find reds, rosés and dry whites with Bergerac and Côtes de Bergerac labelling, whilst those on the hunt for sweet wines should look for Saussignac and Monbazillac. If you are a lover of red clarets then keep your eyes peeled for the wines of Pécharmant.

I cannot claim to have an intimate knowledge of the wines of Pécharmant (it is still a comparatively young AOC). I can count the number of reds I have tasted from here on two hands. However, based on a tasting this week, I am planning to delve a little deeper.

The wines are a classic Bordeaux blend; Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, with Malbec (known to locals as Cot) too, and the local rules stipulate that the wines are not permitted to exceed 13.5 per cent alcohol.

Most encouragingly, there seems to be real emphasis on quality and that is good news for us all.

I tasted the 2003, 2005, 2006 and 2007 vintages of Château de Tiregand’s Pécharmant and was deeply impressed. Each vintage had its own distinct style but all the wines were elegant, nicely-structured with well-integrated tannins. I especially loved the 2005 which was delicately spiced and a steal at just £10.80 (www.tanners-wines.co.uk). I was charmed too by the 2007 but that, sadly, is not yet in the UK.

When it comes to white Bergerac, I have had a fair number of stinkers but that is not to say there are not plenty of good ones to be had.

I did enjoy the Grandissime Bergerac Blanc Sec that Marks & Spencer is selling at £4.49.

Do not expect anything too high brow but it delivers a refreshingly citrus, lightly floral mouthful of wine that is hard not to like.

I said at the start that I thought Richard Doughty’s Saussignacs were fantastic when I first tasted them, and my opinion stands. His Coup de Coeur (£17.99 www.vintage roots.co.uk) is an entrancing mix of caramelised nuts, honey, orange and spice flavours and, despite its richness, it stays fresh with a fine backbone of acidity.

Bergerac has a lot to offer and it is time it stepped out of the shadows and into the limelight.

Click here for The Oxford Times Wine Club offers.