The Corner Club in its various guises has always intrigued me. Tucked away down Turl Street, it started life as the QI Club run by the people behind the TV programme until it was taken over by Curious Clubs two years ago.

I have visited on several occasions for business events and it invariably attracts an eclectic crowd, although facilities and management have always seemed in a state of flux. Recently I have become confused over what they intend to do with the ground floor of this grand building.

For some time the management has been promising to turn it into a public restaurant but nothing happened.

But when I tentatively rang to inquire if it was possible to have lunch without membership, then I was assured the general public were warmly welcome.

It appears that the ground floor will open later in the year and in the meantime the dining room on the first floor is open as a normal restaurant with members only accessing the lounge upstairs, the meeting rooms and bar.

That confusion out of the way, we were indeed made welcome by general manager Christophe Dumeige.

Mr Dumeige took over recently having previously worked at the Manor House Hotel, Castle Combe, near Bath, which has just picked up its first Michelin star.

And he seems to have injected a little Gallic flair already with the quality of the food reminiscent of that found in some of the better restaurants across the Channel.

There is a lunch menu available for a very reasonable £10, which was chosen by my companion, while I opted for the slightly wider choice offered by the standard menu which is also available in the evening.

To start I opted for the duck liver parfait which came served on toast with rocket leaves on the side.

A favourite of mine, this was just how it should be creamy and packed with flavour with peppery rocket offsetting the richness of the meat nicely. A very good start.

Meanwhile, my companion was enjoying her fillets of smoked salmon wrapped around more of that rocket with a tangy sauce on the side.

This was simple but all the better for it and described as “very tasty.”

We had chosen drinks to suit. I had opted for the Vin de Pays de Cotes de Gascogne, a fragrant white which was the best I had sampled for some time.

Meanwhile, there was an air of celebration with my companion’s sparkling Prosecco, although perhaps spending a couple more pounds on Champagne would have had a more satisfying result.

The level of service was excellent with Mr Dumiege and two waiters all serving our table and in fact the others around us, providing a seamless operation. So it was not long before my main course, a venison burger with homemade ‘fat’ chips and all the trimmings appeared.

Although the burger came with tomato relish, blue cheese and (yet more) rocket, I was not going to turn down the offer of ketchup, mustard and mayonnaise which were offered immediately.

The burger was excellent and very beef-like while the chips tasted fresh and fluffy.

My companion was also enjoying chicken with parsley mashed potato which again was as simple as it was appetising. An ideal lighter lunch dish.

Looking around, the Corner Club seems to be enjoying a reasonably brisk lunch trade and it is not difficult to see why. The atmosphere is also extremely convivial with simple wooden tables, an open fire and big windows looking out onto the bustle of the Turl below.

Having gone this far, it seemed rude to decline a dessert. Mr Dumiege re-appeared to brief us on the sweets which included cheesecake and a plate of fromage but then suddenly he mentioned brownies which was totally off-piste.

We took him up on the offer and soon our two spoons were clashing over a very sweet warm confection which owed more than a passing nod to sticky toffee pudding. Delicious.

Unless you are in-the-know (and many seem to be), it would be difficult to realise the Corner Club is even there, let alone open to the public which is confusing.

Matters should improve once the ground floor opens up, but I would recommend a visit before then to appreciate its qualities.

Salmon with rocket and chicken with parsley mash (£10 lunch menu) Duck liver parfait: £6.95 Venison burger: £11 Brownies: £6 Glass of Prosecco: £6 Glass of Vin de Pays de Cotes de Gascogne: £4 Two coffees: £4.40 TOTAL: £48.35