Review: The Swan Inn at Islip is a must try Oxfordshire pub

It’s not the only thing bursting this week, as the 17th century pub sits outside to the River Ray which has seen its banks overflow in recent days. 

Luckily, the pub is closed for the beginning of the new year, reopening on January 16, but I’m not sure the bad weather would have stopped me from getting out the kayak to make my way there for another visit.

When walking into this traditional-looking pub you are immediately faced with an open kitchen, where you would expect to see a bar filled with draft beer, crisps, and dodgy-looking pork scratchings, but don’t worry this offers so much more and then some.

I sat down inside the pub to try the set lunch menu which comes to £37 for two courses or £42 for three, and is only available Wednesday to Saturday.

As I took a look at the set menu on offer, I was served up with Cotswolds bread, salted butter and yeast and malt butter alongside a couple of amuse bouches, with the highlight being an Oreo-looking cheddar custard tart topped with blackberry ketchup. I knew I was in for a treat from the get-go.

A comprehensive wine list and a range of signature cocktails left no stone unturned for the drink options, and expert advice is on hand to find something for your liking.

To start I went for the turkey croquette which was served with parsnip puree and drops of mango and curry. There was a crunch to the outside but inside was beautifully cooked turkey which went remarkably well with the puree.

Now for the main event. I opted for the onglet, commonly known in English as hanger steak, which came as stacked cuts of meat which were cooked to pink perfection and full of flavour. It was topped with pieces of Ox cheek and served alongside a bread pudding and celeriac puree with a ‘reform’ sauce.

It combined to make a delightful dish. Not only did it taste great, but it came expertly put together. But that didn’t last long like that as I quickly tucked in before sending back an empty plate.

And the empty plates didn’t stop there as for dessert I picked the freshly made chocolate custard. It’s fair to say it ended the three courses in divine fashion. Sat under a coconut sorbet, citrus fruit kalamansi and a crunchy chocolate nib.

It brought together a blend of different textures with every spoonful. The sourness from the kalamansi was the perfect coil to the creamy chocolatey custard alongside the snap from cocoa nib making it a joy with every bite.

The Swan Inn closed its doors in the autumn of 2021 before it announced its return late into 2022 after being taken over by Migg Inns, which is led by local resident Nina Gray. 

Starting from scratch, the pub introduced the Cygnet restaurant and announced Michelin star chef Paul Welburn would be at the helm of the kitchen.

The Yorkshireman previously applied his trade as head chef of the Michelin-starred Rhodes W1 and as an executive chef of the Summertown restaurant 215 Kitchen & Drinks, formerly known as Oxford Kitchen.

He joined the city restaurant in 2017 before it was awarded a Michelin star in 2018.

At the time it was one of only three places which held Michelin stars in the county with the others being Raymond Blanc’s Le Manoir aux Quat' Saisons in Great Milton and The Nut Tree in Murcott.

He said he left the restaurant because he felt he took “the site as far as it would go” and having a project and something he can “build” was very important, and boy has he done that.

Since heading up the pub and restaurant it has been highly lauded as it made the Michelin 2023 Guide and has been awarded three AA rosettes, one of the industry’s most highly awards.

And you can see why, The Swan Inn is a real highlight for the area and with it only being a quick trip out of the city centre, it’s definitely worth a visit.