I have just emerged from one of the most frustratingly inconclusive tastings I have ever taken part in. Four of us were assessing 30 wines of varying styles, with a view to including them in a new wine list.
As with all these tastings, the wines were tasted blind and notes were taken before discussing. It's not uncommon for us to disagree but what was strange was that none of us seemed to be in agreement on any of the wines and, surprisingly, none of the wines were showing at all well.
When the wines were revealed we were surprised - and disconcerted - to see that a significant number of these wines were well known to us and were, typically, well liked and appreciated.
And then, someone whispered the magic words "Well, perhaps today isn't a fruit day". I can almost see your eyebrows hitting the roof. And yes, I also know that I'd promised to keep the wine speak clear and sensible but I genuinely believe that there's something in this slightly quirky way of thinking.
Maria Thun is a leading authority on biodynamics and an established biodynamic farmer. Thun completed extensive research into the way her plants reacted to the relationship of the moon and constellations. What she learnt lead her to develop a calendar based on these relationships; identifying fruit days, root days, flower and leaf days. Each differentiated by the varying gravitational pull of the moon.
It might sound a bit crackers, but big name wine-grower's such as Eduardo Chadwick (Chile), Anne-Claude Leflaive (Burgundy) and Chapoutier (Rhône) are among the most enthusiastic followers of such calendars. They believe that harvesting on fruit days will help the wines ability to age while planting on root days (when the moon is falling), encourages the roots to grow deep into the soils where they can optimise their access to as many nutrients as possible.
I've been lucky enough to have met many more biodynamic farmers than most people can shake a leaf at and I can honestly say that, for the most part, these are talented and entirely lucid and sensible people. What unites them is an acceptance that biodynamics isn't completely logical and why it works isn't entirely clear. What I do know is that some of the very best wines I have tasted have been made biodynamically and that's got to say something.
But does tasting on a fruit day have an impact? A few years ago a leading supermarket chain decided to hold its press tastings on fruit days, having decided that it played a significant part in ensuring that the wines were positively received.
I've certainly had personal experience of having tasted certain wines on a particular day and not been terribly impressed, only to taste them on another day, which turned out to be a fruit day, and had an altogether different experience. It's quirky and inexplicable; but there you have it.
Of course, there's no getting away from the fact that we all like to drink wine on whatever day suits us best. I can't see us all hanging the Thun calendar to our fridges and only opening our wines on selected days . . . there is, after all, a limit!
We want our wines to deliver every day of the week and it is for that reason that I hope my colleagues don't choose to run their tastings only on fruit days. We need to know that the wines we're selecting can deliver 24/7.
One country which has built a well-deserved reputation as being a source of some of the most consistently reliable wines available is Chile. It's a country that has near perfect grape-growing conditions and this, combined with some of the hottest wine-making talent on the planet, make it an increasingly unbeatable proposition. The Chilean case that's on offer from The Oxford Times Wine Club includes some very good wines indeed, and I can pretty much guarantee they will taste great, whatever the day.
Click here for The Oxford Times Wine Club offers.
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