Review: Comfort food with genius at Lamb Tavern, Buckland, Faringdon

A tangle of sturdy limestone houses and fine palladian manor house a duck’s hop from the Thames, it’s a gem of a place but doesn’t feel the need to shout about its charms. Even its low, stubby-towered church seems reluctant to advertise its presence.

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It’s unlikely you’ve been there, but you will almost certainly have trundled past it – the notorious A420 winding past the village, carrying motorists to and from Oxford, 16 miles to the north west, and – if you must – Swindon, a mercifully further distance the other way.

But, whether it likes it or not, this reclusive hamlet is set to find itself very firmly on the map with one of Oxfordshire’s most exciting new culinary destinations.

Fashioned from the same mellow rock that gives the village its sweet – if, in this neck of the woods, incongruous – charm, The Lamb Tavern is one of those almost mythical beasts – a proper, homely country pub which just happens to also be a fabulous restaurant. Unlikely as it seems, we have the pandemic to thank for its transformation – its former custodians having called time after the stop-start stress of the Covid lockdowns.

Stepping in were the dream team of Nathan Richardson – former head chef at Mayfair’s hallowed Guinea Grill – and brother in food Phil White. Eager to do their own thing in the country, the pair somehow happened across the 16th century inn and, says Phil: “Could absolutely not pass up this incredible opportunity to create something truly new and magical.”

Which is why I found myself heading past Besselsleigh and Kingston Bagpuize on a cold, clear winter night.

Just beside the A420 it may well be, but turn off into the dark lanes of the village and it may as well be a different century. The Lamb joins Buckland’s game of hide and seek, surrounded by trees at the end of short lane. Yet what a find.

Entering through the pubby front, it was tempting to join the locals for a brace of pints – having managed to persuaded a dedicated foodie to drive me in return for overpriced drinks back in town later on. But the place was busy and we had a booking I didn’t want to risk losing, so we followed our host to our table in the redesigned dining room – an elegant space of nicely distant tables dressed in crisp white table clothes, but with all the homely appeal you’d expect of a pub which features in the Domesday Book – complete with huge open fireplace.

The menu is an engaging mix of traditional British classics and imaginative gastronomic creations. Starters included such delights as Jerusalem artichoke and blue cheese hash and anchovy stuffed pork belly. It would have been torture to choose had one of my all-time favourite dishes not been smirking at the bottom of the first page – seared scallops and bacon.

Executed well, the combination of delicate-tasting, juicy shellfish and smoked meat is a match made in heaven – and this was divine. Perfectly cooked with a deft touch, it was served with corn and a horseradish butter sauce (£14.50), it was a symphony of flavours and textures which sang.

Considering its thoroughly landlocked location, fish and seafood make a strong presence – with hake and halibut. There is also a grill section, with not just good cuts of meat but a tantalising dish of baby squids – with smoked sausage and seaweed (£17), which was as wonderful as it was unusual.

Squid is harder to get right even than scallops, but these lovelies were expertly grilled, springy, juicy and tender with the right amount of bite and absolutely no hint of rubber. The thick slices of rich sausage and gentle saltiness of the zingy seaweed balanced the sweet taste of the curls of cephalopod. It was hugely satisfying.

The meat lover opposite, went for a bavette – a gorgeous cut of 28 day-aged beef, cooked medium rare with more-ish bites of smoked bone marrow toast and a fresh parsley salad (£19.50). It was well received, and the bit I nicked was very good indeed.

Good chips were £4 extra as was a side of chilli and anchovy broccoli, which was a revelation – refreshing tender stem with bite and body elevated with spicy, salty, fragrant loveliness. Stunning.

It went perfectly with a bottle of Lembranzas Albarino, a dry Spanish white whose balance of citrus fruit and mineral went as well with the seafood as the beef.

For fine dining, the plates were generous, though there was still room for pud – just in the shape of a creamy, satisfying tiramisu to share.

Leaving the cheery bar end of the tavern, we stepped out into the dark to be greeted by the kind of starry sky which makes one ponder one’s irrelevance in the vastness of the universe. Two minutes later, though, and we were back on the A420, dazzled by Wiltshire-bound drivers, listening to the radio and arguing about bands.

Was serene Buckland all a dream? My heart was beginning to wonder, but my waistline confirmed it had been all too real.

Go while you can still get a table.

The Lamb Tavern

• Buckland, near Faringdon. SN7 8QN
• Book at 01367 709196
• Details at lambtavernbuckland.com
• Get there: Drive or hop on a Faringdon-bound bus and enjoy the excellent wine list
• Don’t miss: The grilled squid, if available, is phenomenal. Steaks and lamb cutlets are also first class. And don’t pass up the chance to try that chilli and anchovy broccoli; it is worth the journey alone