WE have lost some great pubs in Oxford. We have also lost some awful ones.
In my small area of the city alone, no fewer than five have disappeared from the map in recent-ish years. I miss three of them.
It’s the same story everywhere, of course – even in the city centre. And while the reopening of The Lamb & Flag has brought some fleeting cheer, the overall picture remains gloomy.
So when news emerged last year that another historic pub – The Mitre, on The High – was to be turned into an Italian restaurant, there didn’t seem much cause for celebration. We do, after all, have a surfeit of Latin eateries but are rapidly running out of venerable watering holes. And the Grade two-listed 15th century Mitre was among the oldest of all.
Dave Richardson, of the Oxford branch of real ale group CAMRA, said: “The Mitre can justly claim to be Oxford’s oldest pub, tracing its history back to the 13th century. It used to display a list of landlords going back to 1230."
It wasn’t, however, particularly good – ignominiously turned into a Berni Inn steakhouse and then a Beefeater before closing with a whimper four years ago and falling into disrepair.
The place reopened in November after a speedy renovation which saw it open its doors as the latest addition to the medium-sized Gusto Italian chain. Boss Matt Snell, said the team had set out to “deliver a stunning building that combines tradition and modernity, that the people of Oxford will be proud to call their own”.
Stepping through the door, beneath its trademark semi-circular sign, it was immediately obvious that they have succeeded; and in spectacular fashion.
The place is the beauty the faded Mitre always deserved to have been.
Original features, beams, panelling and plasterwork have been restored and augmented in a stunning conversion which has created a sophisticated but homely interior which feels part St James’s members’ club, part fine-dining restaurant and, yeah, part pub.
There are modestly-lit cosy, private nooks and corners and, at its heart, an open plan kitchen where cheery chefs serve up contemporary authentic Italian delights and slide pizzas in and out of a huge wood-fired oven.
Its haphazard tangle of rooms give the generous premises an intimate feel.
We took a table in a secluded side room and got on with the business of ordering.
The pizzas emerging from that glowing oven looked fabulous, but fancying something lighter and finer, I went for seafood, starting with scallops – the test of any chef’s mettle.
They came as a pair of king-sized beauties, perfectly pan fried – seared at the end and sweet and juicy throughout – served on pea purée flavoured with mint, chilli oil and pork crumb, and topped by a crisp shard of pancetta. At £13.50 they were at the pricier end of the menu, which starts at £7.50 for starters and £4 for nibbles, but well worth it.
My friend Luke tucked into a plate of houmous (£5.25), elaborately topped with tall, sail-like triangles of crisp bread and sprinkled with pumpkin seeds.
Continuing with the seafood theme, and taking a cue from Gusto’s own recommendation, I followed up with ravioli stuffed with scallop and prawn (£17.95). This was also extraordinarily fine – four large nicely firm parcels of delicate marine loveliness in a rich tasty lobster bisque, with lengths of samphire and halved cherry tomatoes.
I tried to make it last, savouring every bite, but it disappeared all too soon.
Luke took longer to tackle his heftier steak – a glorious 280g rib-eye with cacio e pepe (pecorino cheese and black pepper) butter, skin-on fries, and a sprinkling of rocket and pecorino (£28.95).
It looked great and it kept him quiet – apart from the odd approving mumble – long enough for me to get stuck into the wine. The wine list has a great collection of Italians, starting at a jolly decent £23 a bottle.
The fresh mellow Terre di Giumara Grecanico, from sunny Sicily (£30) is a winner – aromatic zesty white fruit and definite hints of orange.
We finished in the only way we knew how, with tiramisu (£7.25). It was rich, creamy, spongy and comforting, but with that all-important espresso kick to get us out of our seats.
Normally silent after a good dinner, on this night we were effusive about our new favourite city centre restaurant. It is a triumph, we agreed. Great food and a real looker.
It is a shame the Mitre closed, of course, but what a rebirth. The old place has been transformed into a beauty... and that has to be worth drinking to.
Saluti!
GUSTO ITALIAN
Where: High Street Oxford OX1 4AG
Book: 01865 587 610 or go to gustorestaurants.uk.com/restaurants/oxford/
Open: Monday - Thursday: noon-10pm, Friday and Saturday: 10am (for brunch) -11pm, Sunday: 10am (brunch) - 10pm
Hideaway: A private dining room can seat up to 55 guests and is perfect for celebrations, business meetings or for gathering family and friends for a surprise announcement (possibly)
Parking: Forget about it. If you live out of town and are bus-less, use the Westgate or park & ride
Don’t miss: The scallops are wonderful and the pizzas among the best anywhere
Comments: Our rules
We want our comments to be a lively and valuable part of our community - a place where readers can debate and engage with the most important local issues. The ability to comment on our stories is a privilege, not a right, however, and that privilege may be withdrawn if it is abused or misused.
Please report any comments that break our rules.
Read the rules hereComments are closed on this article