Magic organic

I was having a bit of a whinge about them to a fellow journalist at a tasting of a major supermarket's latest wine range last week and after bemoaning California's heavy wines, the exorbitant prices and the lack of identity, we then found ourselves having a good old go at the Tesco range too.

It is not really the done thing to be too rude about the wines you're in the middle of tasting but the number of wrinkled noses and the speedy exits were telling a clear enough story.

Only a day or two later, a similar sea of faces appeared at the Vintage Roots' trade tasting. Right at the start I have to declare my interest in this dynamic, all-organic, wine-merchant.

Having spent almost seven years in their full-time employ and still doing the odd bit of work for them, I can't claim to be fully objective but I don't think my enthusiasm for the wines is unfounded or, indeed, unique.

The guest list was impressive - Master of Wines' Steven Spurrier, Tim Atkin, Sarah Jane-Evans, Beverley Blanning were among the journalists in attendance, alongside sommeliers and shop-buyers.

The buzz in the room was incredible with satisfied murmurings accompanying seriously generous praise: "There's not a single wine in this room that I wouldn't be happy to drink at home," from one, and "there is some really great wine here" from another.

Such praise hasn't always been so lavishly poured upon organic wines and, if I am entirely honest, the criticism hasn't always been unfounded.

I have tasted my fair share of complete duffers over the years but that's as true for conventionally-made wines as it is for those that are organically produced.

I think that the producers of organic wines have responded positively to the criticism and striven to deliver better and better wines to persuade consumers of their merit.

One MW who has been coming to Vintage Roots' tastings for more than 15 years got it right when he said: "The fruit in these wines has always been fantastic but what I am tasting today are wines that are being made with more confidence and polish".

All the wines that Vintage Roots imports come from vineyards that are organically certified. What this means is that the consumer has a guarantee that standards set down by the EU are being met. These wines are made without the use of industrial compounds such as pesticides, fungicides or fertilizers.

Producers seek to avoid adding anything to the soil that does not come from nature itself. They do this by increasing microbial activity in the soil by using composts and manure. Polyculture' is another hip organic term which refers to the practice of encouraging the growth of other crops among the vines. Grasses and legumes bring additional nitrogen to the vineyard, while oats are often planted because of their pesticidal qualities.

In California you might see plum trees planted around organic vineyards because they serve to attract Anagrus wasps which eat the hugely destructive vine leaf hoppers which cause both damage to the crops and carry disease into the vineyard. Some say that organics is nonsense, but this sort of vineyard management just sounds like common sense to me.

I have been advocating all that is positive about organic wines for almost ten years and I know that sometimes people think this is nothing more than marketing speak. So, let me put it in the simplest way that I can.

Because an organic producer is not allowed to throw a bunch of chemicals at every pest or disease that comes his vineyard's way, it is in his best interest to manage his vines with the greatest attentiveness. It is perhaps this, above all else, that gives him the best chance of yielding the finest fruit and ultimately, the finest quality wines.

As I have always said, the proof of the wine is in the drinking and I have settled on my top five wines from the tasting that I hope won't leave you in any doubt about the quality that organic wines can deliver.

AOC Champagne Carte Rouge (£20.75) is the house champagne from leading producer, Jean-Pierre Fleury. It's made predominantly from pinot noir and is fruity and generous with benchmark toasty notes. For this kind of quality, it's extremely good value.

DOC Soave Borgoletto (£6.85) from northern Italy is made by the Fasoli family about whom I've never been shy about admitting my love-affair with their wines. They capture the vibrancy of fruit that exemplifies all that is great about organics in their wines and this Soave has radiant lemon fruits and a touch of spritz.

In December last year I survived the marathon flight of more than 26 hours to New Zealand to visit, amongst other things, the pioneering James and Annie Millton in Gisborne.

Their wines have a loyal following and, in particular, their chenin blanc. I have always had more than a soft spot for their off-dry Riesling (£10.99) which is oranges and limes all the way with an uplifting acidity. It's also only nine per cent abv.

If you are starting to think that organic wines are always expensive, look no further than Sicilian Sollatio Rosso (£4.99) which is refreshingly fruity and very easy going.

My last recommendation is for the Californian Zinfandel (£8.50) from Barra which almost single-handedly restored my faith in this region's wines. It is rich but not overpowering, well-balanced and sensibly priced.