T hey are quite different, but, after dining at The Fleece in Witney and The Fishes in North Hinksey, Oxford, I can confirm that both pubs obviously have a winning formula. They are part of the seven-strong stable of foodie pubs across middle England owned by Oxfordshire-based Peach Pub Company.
They came to my notice after, in February, being named one of the UK's best places to work in hospitality. Peach received the award for the way it works with, trains and supports each of its 210 employees.
I figured that a happy workforce had to impact favourably on the meals they create and serve, so I took myself off to visit Peach's two Oxfordshire pubs.
The company prides itself on sourcing the best quality fresh ingredients from ethical producers. All chicken, pork and eggs are free-range and the beef is 28-day dry-aged Aberdeenshire. Air-freighting food and veg is avoided by buying British seasonal produce wherever possible.
My first stop was The Fleece, in its picture-perfect location on Church Green, Witney. I visited with a friend on a Thursday evening in February, and the place was buzzing.
The winter menu was being offered when we visited, so the emphasis was on warming food with a contemporary touch.
For starters you could choose something light, such as caesar salad or roast beetroot and goats cheese with chard and pinenuts, or something more comforting such as pan-fried garlic mushrooms with a parmesan and thyme cream sauce or butternut and sage risotto.
My friend went rather retro with her (very large) crab and king prawn cocktail, while I chose the smoked haddock and prawn smokie, which tasted great, though the sauce could have been thicker.
Main courses ranged from pot-roast saddle of rabbit with pork and apricot stuffing, swede mash and parsnip crisps to roast salmon with a prawn and sesame crust, wilted greens and butter sauce to braised neck of lamb with creamed potatoes and roasted roots (this dish reminded me of one of my mum's staple dishes when I was a child).
My companion's choice was a slow roast pork belly on a bed of creamed leeks with an admirably crunchy crackling and apple sauce. She had a side dish of yummy mini jacket potatoes with créme frâiche (I pinched a couple!). I chose one of the specials from the blackboard - a pinkly perfect breast of duck on a bed of chorizo-laden risotto with a punchy chilli jus. It was excellent!
Despite being totally satiated, we felt obliged to sample a pud, and both chose the chocolate pot. However, I think perhaps the name of this was slightly misleading as we both expected a chocolate-moussey cold dessert. Instead, it was a hot fondant sponge with a gooey centre - very good, but a bit stodgy when you are already feeling full!
We settled back with some good coffee, enjoying the buzz of The Fleece, which is definitely doing all the right things - every table was full of happy chatty diners. Service is pleasant and efficient. The pub also has the advantage of being bang in the middle of Witney, close to the bus stops and taxi rank.
Four days later it was time to sample Sunday lunch at Peach's second Oxfordshire outpost, The Fishes at North Hinksey. Just a mile or so from the city's busy Botley Road, the pub is in the middle of countryside, with a river at the bottom of the pub garden.
It was heaving when we arrived - the bar full of families with babies and small children - so my husband and I were happy to be shown to our corner table in the conservatory part of the restaurant.
I was pleased to see that The Fishes' menu featured its own specialities, totally different to those served at The Fleece, which I think is commendable.
We could choose from the Sunday lunch menu, which features a variety of roasts including platters of meat and veggies to feed two people, or from the regular a la carte menu. Our starters came from the a la carte, and we both chose pancetta-wrapped scallops with grilled black pudding, baby leaf and artichoke salad. While this was enjoyed, we both found it a bit dry - we felt it really needed a little sauce of some description.
For my main course I chose the roast beef, cooked rare (you could have had it well done if you preferred), and served with a pile of roasted potatoes, a huge Yorkshire pudding, vegetables and gravy. I thought it was very good indeed, and great value at £10.95.
My husband's choice was the 28-day dry-aged Aberdeenshire fillet steak - a moist and succulent slab of beef served with a little pie' of wild mushrooms in a heady ale gravy, and horseradish mash. He proclaimed it excellent.
Other appealing mains' included monkfish, spinach and curried mussels, and smoked haddock fishcake with mustard creamed leeks.
Puddings . . . well, it was a Calypso coffee for hubbie and a hot toffee apple - an old-fashioned baked apple (I haven't seen one of those in a while) - with gingerbread ice cream, for me. I wasn't bowled over, though the ice cream was nice.
As with The Fleece, The Fishes is buzzy and upbeat - don't go if you are seeking peace and quiet.
But if you want to enjoy good, innovative food, served by a bunch of efficient and cheerful staff, then either of these pubs fits the bill. And their popularity speaks for itself - it really is best to book whatever day or time you choose to go.
The Fleece, 11 Church Green, Witney OX28 4AZ, tel 01993 892270, www.fleecewitney.co.uk The Fishes, North Hinksey, Oxford OX2 0NA, tel 01865 249796, www.fishesoxford.co.uk
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