The entrance to The Vineyard at Stockcross is stunning. In the darkness seven tongues of fire leap from a huge black mirrored tray of water, creating a constantly-changing abstract canvas.

It was very impressive, and could only auger well for our eating experience at The Vineyard - the two Michelin-starred temple of gastronomy at Newbury.

The restaurant is the elevated province of Executive Chef John Campbell, who is known as the cerebral chef' - which I took to mean that as much creative thought goes into his dishes as into the actual production process.

Having established a great reputation at the Lords of the Manor Hotel in Upper Slaughter, Gloucestershire, he moved to The Vineyard in 2002.

The restaurant already had one Michelin star, and John added another last year. His genius, I had read, lies in combining complex elements into dishes that look and feel simple - a skill I was more than happy to put to the test.

The Vineyard at Stockcross was opened nine years ago by Sir Peter Michael, the founder of the commercial radio station, Classic FM.

He owns a vineyard in Nappa Valley, California, and his wines are a feature of The Vineyard's truly amazingly wine list (just how amazing we found out the next morning when the head sommelier gave us a tour of the wine cellars, which store 23,000 bottles!) The Vineyard was originally marketed as a restaurant with rooms to stay', but it upped the ante in 2004, with the addition of 16 atrium suites.

Eating in such a celebrated restaurant (it is ninth in Britain's top restaurant index) can be nothing less than special. True to form, the food, venue, ambience and impeccable service all combined to create an unforgettable experience.

Seated in the lush surroundings of the lounge, we decided that the occasion called for something special in the drinks department too - a classic Champagne cocktail for me, and a Mojito for my husband. Deciding what to eat was easy - both of us agreed that the tasting menu was the best way to enjoy John's food, allowing us small tastes of a variety of his award-winning dishes.

We were shown through to the large atrium-style restaurant, pictured above, decorated in restful creams and beiges with arrangements of purple orchids adding splashes of colour. The wrought iron vine balustrade adds a dramatic flourish.

We had a coveted table by the huge windows looking out over the pool with its leaping flames - it was, however, a bit chilly, so I kept my wrap round my shoulders (my only adverse comment about the entire evening).

To accompany the tasting menu, charming head sommelier Hubert Chabot offered us a variety of wines to accompany the dishes - always fascinating. Reflecting John Campbell's unpretentious philosophy, the menu features no fancy descriptions of the food - just the basics, so it made our gastronomic journey even more of an adventure.

We started with an intensely flavoured wild mushroom risotto, followed by a perfectly mi cuit' piece of salmon, served on a bed of spiced lentils.

The second fish course was a broth of mussels, tomato and olive, in which nestled a sea bass fillet. Beautifully presented, and offered with a choice of home-made breads, it was delicious.

The next course was billed as roast chicken, stuffing' - but this was no everyday roast. It was the juiciest, tastiest, most succulent chicken we had ever tasted, and there was quite a lot of it, so a little rest was called for. Diners' comfort breaks' present no problem for The Vineyard. As if by magic, our next course appeared when we returned.

This time it was the tenderest pink squab (pigeon) with an amazing rhubard and custard accompaniment. It sounded mad on paper, but, believe me, it worked! My husband will vouch for that - he was bowled over.

How many courses in were we? I'd given up counting, and was relishing every mouthful.

Next up was a pinkly perfect lamb loin, served with balsamic onion. Small(ish) as the courses are, by this point we were both getting pretty full - we should, of course, have known that a restaurant of The Vineyard's calibre would have it covered. The next dish was astonishingly spot-on in refreshing the palate - a dish of fresh pickled beetroot slices, formed into perfect goats' cheese sandwiches. It was an impossibly pretty dish too!

More refreshment in the form of a cucumber and lime soup with mango followed, then a dish of strawberries served in a variety of delicious ways, and, finally, a light-as-a-feather hazelnut sponge with an intensely surprising Guinness and treacle sauce. We retired to the lounge for coffee and home-made chocolates.

The tasting menu is £88 and, in my opinion, worth every penny - food, venue, ambience and service were faultless. If a special occasion is beckoning, or you just want to treat yourself, The Vineyard at Stockcross is around 45 minutes down the A34 from Oxford - and you could always go the whole hog, and stay over too. Bliss!

The Vineyard at Stockcross, Newbury, Berkshire, RG20 8JU. 01635 528770, www.the-vineyard.co.uk