VAL BOURNE follows the Dutch example by forcing bulbs in midwinter

We are only about two weeks away from the shortest day and you can already see bulbs pushing up through the ground. In fact, I have one solitary autumn-flowering snowdrop, Galanthus reginae-olgae, in full flower and several Narcissus Cedric Morris' about to flower. In six weeks I hope to have hundreds of bulbs out.

But the Victorians didn't tolerate this kind of gap. They filled it by forcing bulbs and flowers for midwinter use. Wooden trays full of bulbs were prepared in mid-August and put into a plunge bed in the coolest part of the garden.

The bulbs were packed cheek by jowl and then watered once and allowed to drain. Then the whole bed was covered in a six-inch layer of cinder ash from the stoves. It was left undisturbed until late November and then checked. Any bulbs showing strong shoots were then placed in a cold greenhouse and 'greened up' before going into the house.

Bulb-forcing is still highly popular in Holland and it is done commercially with a range of bulbs. They're often potted on top of sand and then put into a cold store at about 9C for roughly four months, before being brought into a warmer place. Forced bulbs are planted close together and a small pot can make a large impact.

The Dutch don't always bring their forced bulbs inside, however. They often place them in a prominent places in the garden - sometimes by the main door, on a garden table, or a jardiniere. The flowers last longer outside and it's also possible to have crocus, narcissi, muscari and tulips at the same time.

Their displays never look garish because of the colour theme. In one Dutch garden I saw a sophisticated arrangement of white bulbs placed on a metal jardiniere in front of rich-green yew hedging. In another there were countless silver or galvanised containers displaying a range of miniature purple and blue bulbs.

Other favourites combinations include lemon-yellow narcissi with contrasting small blue bulbs, or square pans of white crocus Jeanne d'Arc' on dark marble surfaces.

The Dutch also use a wide range of containers including wicker baskets, galvanised buckets, wooden trays and sometimes even old bicycles.

When forcing bulbs at home the depth of the pot or tray is important because your bulb roots need at least 10cms to develop. Drainage is also important so start by adding broken crocks or stones to the base. Use good potting compost and place the bulbs on top of the compost, just covering the necks, so that they protrude.

Use an odd number of the same variety, it makes for a better display. Water and allow to drain well. Place the pots somewhere cool and dark. I used to use a cold frame with a thick ply board cover in a dark position. A shed will do but you will have to exclude the light.

Most bulbs also need at least 12 weeks so it is best to start at the beginning of September if not before. When large shoots appear, bring the bulbs into a warmer place for about two weeks until they start to bloom. Then decide on a container and where to place them. Water little and often and, if the bulbs are kept indoors, spray them with a hand-held mister to keep the flowers fresh. If you are thinking of having a go Start with hyacinths, they are the easiest bulbs of all.