Chris Gray raises a glass to a boozy new venture

The thought suddenly struck me, as I relayed today’s photograph from iPhone to computer, that Tom Nicolson bears more than a passing resemblance to my old – and much lamented - friend Chris Moss. This is strange because, besides physical similarities, the pair have other things in common, both being the sons of vicars and being involved in the creation and supply of booze.

Chris was the founder and head brewer of the Wychwood Brewery which, long after his premature death, still thrives in Witney. His was the face – much exaggerated in the artist’s execution – on the label of Wychwood’s Hobgoblin beer.

Tom is the boss of The Oxford Artisan Distillery (TOAD) which is soon to be producing gin and other spirits – assuming all goes well with a planning application – from former farm buildings off Cheney Lane, Headington.

Formerly involved in the music business in London, Tom was born in Jericho (the old Radcliffe Infirmary), one of five children of the Rev Paul Nicolson who, as long-time Vicar of Turville has a claim to be called the real Vicar of Dibley since this is where the TV series was shot.

Having returned to the place of his birth, Tom is now resident on a large barge moored beside Rainbow Bridge beside Port Meadow. This is highly convenient both for the Perch pub in Binsey and the Punter in Osney, excellent establishments where our paths have often crossed.

We chose the Punter last week for a lunch to discuss Oxford Gin and related matters, including TOAD’s collaboration – a marvellous one in my view – with the Oxford Botanic Garden whose new boss, Prof Simon Hiscock, is another old mate of mine.

The Punter is an ideal place to talk gin since it is something of a speciality of the house, with a double g and t on offer at the bargain price of £3. This began as a special summer offer last year but proved such a hit (not surprisingly!) that it’s gone on ever since.

Tom brought with him his delightful dalmation Bert, the son of a Cruft’s best in breed dog who went on to star in one of the 101 Dalmations films. He readily fits the description given to the canine character in The Woodentops – “the very biggest spotty dog you ever did see”.

Tom told me first about his fellow director and master distiller Cory Mason, a native Californian with a background in cocktail bar management, including that of Employees Only, voted best cocktail bar in the world. His bootlegged absinthe developed a cult following at the New York speakeasy he ran for ten years. Absinthe – which retains its reputation for artistic decadence - will also be produced by TOAD.

Cory graduated from the International Centre for Brewing and Distilling at Heriot Watt University, in Edinburgh, where he stayed on as a scholar, carrying out research into spirit distillation. He is consulting master distiller behind two UK craft distilleries.

He has spoken with enthusiasm about the 25 year licence agreement Tom has signed with the Botanic Garden, which is Britain’s oldest, founded in 1621.

He said: “I am buzzing at the chance to work with Prof Hiscock. We can distil recipes rooted in the garden’s remarkable historic archive and ingredients grown in the garden for hundreds of years.”

Cory will be exploring gin’s myriad flavours at an event at the garden on Saturday, The Naked Spirit Experience, which is being staged as part of the Oxford Festival of the Arts. There are tastings at 5pm, 6.30pm and 8pm (artsfestivaloxford.org).

Simon Hiscock told me of his delight at working with TOAD.

“I was so impressed with Tom’s integrity and passion for everything he plans to achieve at TOAD. It makes perfect sense for Oxford Botanic Garden to align itself with Oxford’s first craft distillery. I’m looking forward to making spirits inspired by our historic collections and having some botanical fun along the way.”

Over my fish curry lunch at the Punter (another bargain at £5), Tom told me: “TOAD will be that rarest of things, a true craft distillery.

“We care deeply about the quality of or spirits but also about the impact of our production. We will use ancient and genetically diverse populations of rye, wheat and barley, grown exclusively for us on local organic farms.

“We will be one of only a handful of distilleries to make spirits from grain to grass, from the field to the bottle.

“Cory and I will oversee the entire process. Out range of craft spirits will launch initially in Oxford, then further afield, later this year.”

I can’t wait.