The good life in Cornwall

As Dickens might have said, it was a tale of two Cornwalls.

Just two weeks earlier, we had been camping in Perranporth, in a tent that was rapidly reaching the end of its shelf life and whose front zip had completely given up the ghost. In winds which felt like they were approaching gale force.

Now we were living the good life in an uber-cool three-bedroom apartment, just 10 minutes’ walk from the beach, surrounded by all mod cons and more space than we knew what to do with.

Welcome to The Point at Polzeath, a mixture of 18-hole golf course, with driving range, holiday homes, health spa and swimming pool, set in the spectacular Cornish landscape.

It’s a good job our three-bedroom dog-friendly apartment, Malin, was so breathtaking, as we had endured a six-hour drive to get there, arriving just as the Poldark-style Cornish “mizzle” (part mist, part drizzle) was starting to descend in earnest. Any family squabbles that were starting to get out of hand were quickly forgotten as we explored our elegant, Scandinavian-style home for the next two nights. Our two kids suddenly discovered a second wind as they started playing hide-and-seek in the huge spaces, particularly loving the giant beanbags.

The open-plan state-of-the-art kitchen, dining room and living area with wood-burning stove are on the first floor, with the three double bedrooms – one en suite – bath and shower room and utility room down the stairs. The built-in wardrobes are so spacious my son wanted to sleep in his as a den, while my daughter – who is not normally the tidiest of creatures – was so taken with her room she kept it immaculate for the whole weekend. The seven apartments boast green credentials, with ground-source heat pumps firing up the under-floor heating and hot water supply. The buildings are clad in Kebony, a ‘sustainable alternative to tropical hardwood’.

As is often the way with British holidays, we woke up the next day to find the weather was grey and overcast. We were also advised there was very little surf that day, so our plans to hit the body boards had to wait.

If, like us, you’re travelling with your hound, it’s worth checking which beaches allow dogs – and when.

We headed to the posh destination of Rock, where dogs are not only welcome, but practically compulsory. The children were in their element on a great, bracing walk to Daymer Bay, where loads of our four-legged friends congregated for a sniff and a play. The children, meanwhile, collected bags of shells and discovered the thrill of looking for crabs and skimming pebbles.

On the other side of the Camel estuary is Padstow and, if you don’t fancy taking the long route by foot, you can get the regular ferry for £4 return (children £2). You can’t beat a boat ride.

Despite the proliferation of celebrity chef Rick Stein’s restaurants, Padstow is much more of a traditional seaside destination than Rock. You’ll have to book in advance if you want to eat at his famed Seafood Restaurant, but if you don’t mind queueing, you can sample the food at his fish and chip shop. If you’re lucky, the squid will be on the specials board – simply delicious. And pay attention to the ‘don’t feed the seagulls’ signs – they’ll be all over you like a rash as soon as you show any sign of weakness. To make up for the lack of sea action, we returned to The Point to take advantage of the pool. It’s a good size, and has a built-in Jacuzzi as well as a sauna and steam room.

Marc and his children enjoy a bracing walk on the beach

Although the apartment comes with a huge HD TV, it also contained loads of family board games which kept us entertained in a more traditional manner (although I’m still smarting from the absolute whupping I got at Scrabble).

The surf (and indeed the weather) was a lot brighter the next day, so it was off to the wonderfully-named Busty Moo’s Magic Surf Hire shack on Polzeath beach to get wetsuits and boards. We certainly felt the part, even if we weren’t the most accomplished surfers on the beach.

My nine-year-old daughter dashed ahead, signalling her intention to “shred some waves”, while her seven-year-old brother didn’t get further than paddling. Great fun though.

Another quick dip in the pool, then it was time for a visit to the restaurant at The Point. To prove its credentials as dog-friendly – not just dog tolerant – our black Labrador was allowed in the restaurant at lunchtimes, but he had no joy begging for scraps.

A 500-mile round trip is a long journey for a weekend, and you can’t guarantee the weather. But there’s something magical about Cornwall, and The Point’s sensational apartments only add to the attraction. We’ll be back...and hopefully not in a tent.

FACTFILE

* The Point at Polzeath, St Minver, Polzeath, Cornwall PL27 6QT.
* The Point has three two-bedroom and four three-bedroom apartments, costing from between £140 and £200 per night. Restaurant: 01208 864602. Golf: 01208 864601. Holidays: 01208 869430. Leisure: 01208 864603.
* holidays@thepointatpolzeath.co.uk