Taking to the slopes in the French Alps

High. The first thing to know about Val Thorens is it is high. Very high.

If the Alps are the roof of Europe, this exposed cluster of hotels, hire shops, bars and restaurants, is the icy turret rising above it all - the pre-eminent ski resort in Western Europe.

The extent of its sky-scraping 2,300m elevation is obvious on the journey in, on the snaking mountain road from the transport hub of Moutiers far, far below. Driving forever upwards, beyond the treeline, ears popping along the way, the vistas open out to reveal a rugged 360-degree vista of peaks and snow fields. And then the road stops. Ahead is the snowy wilderness of the Vanoise National Park - populated only by chamois, ibex, marmot, lynx and - so it is rumoured - wolf.

With only one track in and out, ‘VT’ - as it is known to the in-crowd of skiers and boarders who refuse to go anywhere else - is literally the end of the road. And it feels like it: exclusive, rarefied and cosy.

This may be part of the world-famous 3 Vallées ski area - the biggest on earth - but it is a world apart from the glitz of it’s better known neighbour Courchevel - with its pricey bars, designer gear, and brassy oligarchs accompanied by fur-clad wives and girlfriends. Prices are reasonable - downright cheap at happy hour - and there’s an upbeat cheeriness bordering on smugness, which can only come from the knowledge that one has some of the planet’s best skiing at your toes.

There is class too though - with beautiful hotels, lavish spas and serious Michelin-starred restaurants pulling in foodies.

In summer, the locals say, it looks like the surface of the moon - but in winter, it is paradise. And there is always, but always, snow.

“Even on a bad year, there is always snow up here,” says my red-suited guide from the local "Ecole du Ski Français (ESF), with a gleaming smile - easily as dazzling as the snow around us. “And it’s always amazing. It is so high, you see!”

You’d have to keep your head in the snow not to get the message. Everybody, it seems, is a budding geography teacher.

It stands to reason then, that the only place to stay in this lofty eyrie is the highest place in town - in fact, the highest luxury hotel in the whole of Europe - the Koh-I Nor.

Named after what was once the world’s largest diamond (‘the Mountain of Light’ in Persian) this stunning five-star glass-sided edifice, perched precariously on the side of a mountain, is aptly named - every inch as impressive as its 186-carat namesake. Standing on its terrace, the chill mountain air tingles one’s lungs and the altitude leaves you a little woozy. Though, in my case, that could be the génépi - the potent, local Savoie spirit distilled from Alpine plants. It’s an acquired taste, for sure, but once acquired is very more-ish indeed.

It’s certainly not to be recommended before hitting the slopes - which, of course, is the best - though certainly not the only - reason for venturing up here.

With the 3 Vallées to roam around in, skiers and boarders have 600km of connected ski-in, ski-out runs, six glaciers and 25 summits to enjoy - and 62,000m of vertical drop - seven times that of the Himalayas!

It’s breathtaking - literally, given its elevation - and with enough to keep plodding intermediates like me just as busy - and happy - as absolute beginners and off-piste freeriders.

Mountain of Light: Koh-I Nor Hotel, Val Thorens

For those who like to play, there’s a 2,600m-high snowpark with 70,000 square metres of kickers, rails and big air fun - and ranked among the world’s top 10.

Back at the Koh-I Nor it’s time to soak up some of that five-star luxury. After unwinding in my room, with a jaw-dropping sunset fading to ridiculously starry night, it’s time to enjoy the spa - pool, steam room, sauna and jacuzzi - and then eat. Forget the usual hearty Savoie fare of tartiflette and raclette, though. Eating in VT is taken as seriously as the skiing.

Holding court at the Koh-I Nor is two-Michelin-star chef Yoann Conte. A master of his craft, he shows of his skills with an extravagant taster menu - each course accompanied by yet another great wine - which in no way contributed to any wobbles later on. Oh no, that was strictly down to the altitude.

Unlike some resorts,. fixed in aspic, VT has a knack for reinventing itself. So along with first-rate skiing and boarding, daredevils can try Europe’s highest zip wire (3,600m), toboggan on Europe’s longest run, or try their hand at ice driving at a dedicated Ice Driving Academy - with a circuit named after French F1 hero Alain Prost.

“It’s the best of it’s kind,” I was told proudly by the driver who talked me round a couple of fun, yet terrifyingly uncontrolled, laps - most going sideways. “Also, dide you know,” he added. “It is the highest ice-racing track in Europe!”

Of course it is.

ESSENTIALS

Getting there:
* Fly to Geneva, Chambery or Lyon. There are regular transfers. valthorens.com 

Stay & eat:
* Koh-I Nor: hotel-kohinor.com +33 4 79 31 00 00. From 340 Euro per night.
* Hotel Fitzroy: hotefitzroy.com
* Le Val Thorens: levalthorens.com
* Steak Club: steakclub.fr
* Le Montana: vmontana.com
* Restaurant Jean Sulpice: jeansulpice.com

Activities:
* Ski School: ESF +33 4 79 00 02 86 esf-valthorens.com Adult group ski lessons cost 154 Euros for six mornings (2½ hours). Adult private lessons cost 310 Euros for a full day or 378 Euros for six lessons (1 ½ hours each).
* Ice Driving Academy icedrivingacademy.com ice.driving.academy@sainteloc.com +33 6 74 78 25 13. Private lessons start from 90 Euro. Driving with a professional costs 50 Euro for three laps. Karting from 20 Euro per session 

For more information on Val Thorens go to valthorens.com
For more on the region of Savoie Mont Blanc, go to savoie-mont-blanc.com/en

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