Quod Brasserie - High Street, Oxford

Since its memorably magnificent opening party a month or so shy of the Millennium, Quod has remained my favourite among Oxford’s city centre restaurants. Its location is unparalleled. From its front windows can be enjoyed a glorious view of the University Church of St Mary the Virgin in all its magnificence, with Brasenose College, Radcliffe Square and All Souls in the vista too.

Partly on account of its fabulous display of contemporary figurative art, the restaurant itself exercises significant visual appeal as well. The pictures are from the collection of owner Jeremy Mogford, who set out to acquire the best work from young British talents like Sandra Blow, Craigie Aitchinson and Gary Hume.

There is about Quod, too, the special buzz that comes from having a top-class hotel — the city’s best — above and behind.

Recognisably smart people from all over the world mingle at its tables among the more obviously ‘local’ — donnish types very often, for whom this is a favourite and convenient nosebag. Expect, too, in term time to see some of the many young people who are in the city to study, sometimes with their proud parents at significant moments in their college careers.

It’s an eclectic mixture, to which can be added many a young couple out on a special date at what is very definitely a special place.

All this suggests a challenge for the chef — currently he is Vince Langton — in trying to supply . . . I won’t say all things to all people, but certainly many of the things most people expect of a large and busy brasserie in 2014. His success is apparent in the place having recently been been listed among the nation’s top three all-day restaurants by the Sunday Times.

There are appetising snacks to be enjoyed over a glass of wine or cocktail around the stylish bar. Olives, chicken wings, baby squid, and chorizo and potatoes figure among the choices.

A couple of favourite pasta dishes (spaghettini bolognese and fettuccine carbonara) are usually supplemented by another on the day’s blackboard specials, which always feature a risotto as well. There are five types of pizza to satisfy tastes meaty, veggie and fishy. These can also be ordered by the half-metre for sharing.

There are hamburgers and steaks, sourced from an Aberdeen Angus herd at Jeremy Mogford’s Rofford Farm, near Chalgrove, which also supplies delicious pork and lamb in season.

Mention of season leads me to the main menu, which owing to the timely appearance of this article is being premiered in its new autumn guise this very week.

Rosemarie and I sampled some of the new dishes as specials on our last visit. This was a suitably autumnal occasion on the second night of St Giles’s Fair, the air heavy with the smell of candifloss and hot dogs as we walked to the High. From this street food, the sunshine taste of a crisp Petit Chablis 2012 ushered us into more refined areas of gastronomy.

Seated at a favourite window table, we began with spinach soup with nutmeg and crème fraîche. This, too, proved enlivening to the taste buds, on account perhaps of its lemon overtones. The recipe, chef Vince told us later, was inspired by a dish Jeremy had enjoyed on a visit to the café at Petersham Nurseries, in Richmond.

Contrasting very tellingly was the robust flavour of a rich game terrine (venison, wild boar, pigeon and pheasant) offered with tangy medlar jelly. Delicious. Other autumn starters include twice-baked cheese soufflé with figs and walnuts (pictured above) and avocado vinaigrette, another retro taste to follow my recent globe artichoke experience at the Magdalen Arms, in Iffley Road.

Next came a fish course in the delectable shape of a large chunk of brill, roasted on the bone and served with braised fennel and thyme potatoes. The juicy flavour of the fish owed a lot to its having been cut from a three-kilogram whopper, as well as the butter sauce with chives.

On next to roast guinea fowl breast with wild mushrooms boasting the luxury addition of summer truffles and a herb risotto featuring rosemary, thyme, parsley and tarragon.

Pork chop milanese brought a breaded eight-ounce cutlet filled with raclette, a strong-tasting Swiss cheese known for its excellent melting ability, with braised cannellini beans and chunks of chorizo.

After this lot, I had little room left for pudding, but did supply some minor assistance to Rosemarie in the demolition of a slice of treacle tart with clotted cream. For once, the tart lived up to its name in featuring proper black treacle, though this came with golden syrup in equal proportion.

Apple and blackberry crumble and classic crème brulée are among other puds on offer.

Quod Brasserie
92-94 High Street, Oxford, OX1 4BJ 
01865 202505
quod@oldbank-hotel.co.uk

Opening times: Breakfast from 7pm. A la carte menu offered noon till 11pm (10.30pm Sunday). Live jazz 5-7.30pm Sunday.
Parking: Car park at rear, with priority given to hotel guests.
Key personnel: General manager Ben Truesdale, head chef Vince Langton, sous chef Rohan Kashid.
Make sure you try the... spinach soup (£6), cheese soufflé (£7), roast brill (£18), roast guinea fowl breast (£16), pork chop milanese (£15), treacle tart and clotted cream (£6). 
In ten words: Fresh new tastes at buzzy brasserie famous for its looks