Hopefully the worst of the winter has passed so it’s safe to winter prune your fruit trees. Apple and pear trees can be tackled now, although pruning should only be done in clement weather. Stone fruits, such as cherry, apricot, plum and peach, are pruned very lightly in summer instead, once the sap is running and capable of sealing any open wounds. Prune now and fungal diseases like Silver leaf (Chondrostereum purpureum) could enter the tree via the wounds. The theory behind pruning is to promote fruit buds rather than lots of straight-up, leafy growth. In winter, the leading shoots which are growing upwards or outwards, depending on the shape of the variety, generally have a third of the new growth reduced. Once the leaders are shortened, the buds further down will shoot and produce small side branches. These side branches are summer-pruned back to one or two leaves, usually in July or August when the new wood has begun to harden up. This two-stage pruning system promotes fruiting spurs which look like nobbly growths on older trees. These contain fruit buds and these are plumper and rounder than the smaller leaf buds, often with downier scales.

Most apple trees are spur-bearing: they produce fruit close to their main framework. These are the varieties that make good cordons, fans and espaliers and these are best bought already shaped. Shaped trees are pruned in a different way. They are neatened up in August, when the sap has begun to slow down. They are never winter pruned as this would promote rapid growth. A few apple varieties are tip-bearers or partial tip-bearers. These produce fruit at intervals along the length of the leaders, so generally the leaders of tip-bearers are not shortened. This is one reason why it’s best to buy your fruit trees from a fruit specialist who can advise you how to prune, how vigorous the tree is and how suitable it is for your garden. They can also advise you about the rootstocks which define the ultimate size and spread of your tree.

Varieties should be able to cross-pollinate each other and they are put into groups, usually labelled 1-7, to enable gardeners to select varieties that will flower at the same time. Some varieties, including the excellent ‘Bramley Seedling’ produce little or no pollen however. If this is the case, three varieties will have to be grown together as the Bramley will not produce fruit on a partner. Every variety has its own shape and my three apples are all very different. ‘D’Arcy Spice’ forms an upright, vigorous tree with a neat silhouette. I need a stepladder to prune this one. ‘Pitmaston Pineapple’ is a smaller bush-like tree with twiggy branches that curve upwards. I also grow an untidy ‘Blenheim Orange’ which defies description, although I am trying to shape and tame it. A series of really dry seasons and a couple of really wet ones has made even growth difficult on all three. The basic tip is to take your time and don’t rush.

Arm yourself with sharp secateurs in order to make clean cuts. Aim for an open airy shape that allows the air to flow through the tree, allowing the sun to ripen the fruit. Take a long look at your tree and remove any inward-facing growth as these will cause congestion. Always cut about an inch above an outward-facing bud, so that new growth travels outwards. Remove any dying, diseased or dead wood. Then shorten those leaders by a third.