Tim Hughes gives the hiking a miss but soaks up the other attractions scenic Perth has to offer.

STILL flushed red from their climb, the two hikers kicked off their boots and tucked into their toasted teacakes with relish.

The trail may not have been long, but being the Scottish Highlands, it had some hefty ups and downs.

Still, there can be few better places to enjoy a post-ramble break than this impossibly scenic café garden, perched above the dramatic Pass of Killiecrankie, where 400 years ago, soldiers were hacked apart by claymore-wielding Jacobite rebels – and forced to leap for their lives across the thundering River Tummel.

“How far are you going?” one of the walkers asked. “Oh, not far,” I mumbled, sipping at my coffee, ashamed to tell these Gore-Tex clad glen-botherers that not only had I only walked the 100 yards from the car park, but that I wasn’t planning on going any further than the half-mile or so to the valley floor.

“Well, it’s a great day for it,” the second one chirped up.

“Great!” I coughed, unconvincingly, and regretting not for the first time this morning, my decision to check out the buzzing nightlife of nearby Perth the night before – particularly that ill-advised round of single malts in the town’s best music pub – the Twa Tams.

“Well, see you back on the trail,” they said with perhaps just too-much enthusiasm, as they polished off their tea and pulled on their boots. “It’s one of the best walks in Scotland!”

That passion is a recurring theme up here in the southern gateway to the Highlands. From walkers, mountain bikers, and fishermen out on the hills and lochs, to music-lovers and revellers soaking up the culture in cosy Perth and its civilised neighbours Crieff, Aberfeldy and Pitlochry – all staging posts to the wild and rugged Perthshire hill country to the north and west.

The Victorian resort of Pitlochry especially is a gem. It’s also a mecca for music-lovers, its modernist Festival Theatre hosting the engaging Perthshire Amber Festival (which this year runs from October 29-November 7) – a showcase of homegrown music hosted by singing-songwriting local hero Dougie MacClean.

Easily reached from either Edinburgh or Glasgow airports, Perthshire’s county town is a gem. Utterly unspoilt, it is intimate, friendly, and architecturally sublime – with a mix of homely stone cottages, imposing public buildings and grand Georgian houses draped along the banks of Scotland’s greatest river – the Tay. The perfect place to take it all in is from the Perth Bridge, which affords a view of spires, woods and the sun-dappled river coursing below.

Not surprisingly, the town, once Scotland’s capital, has repeatedly received the accolade of having Britain’s best quality of life. A gastronomic hotspot, the locals are blessed with some mighty fine restaurants, and one of Scotland’s best markets – where you can munch on hot local venison sandwiches or slurp oysters while exchanging banter with cheery producers.

That cultural life has been cranked up a gear this year as it celebrates the 800th anniversary of the founding of its Royal Burgh – a cue for a year-long programme of celebrations and events.

But the main reason for heading up here has to be to soak up that scenery; even if, like me, you only do it in bite-sized chunks.

Within a short drive of Perth’s lively pubs is some of the most striking and, yes, empty countryside in these islands. Follow the river, past Fortingall – birthplace of Pontius Pilate (yes, really!) to vast Loch Tay – towered over by the bulk of Ben Lawers – which at nearly 4,000ft towers over the area, and which makes for a tasty day hike.

Alternatively, check out the grandiose piles of Scone Palace, or Blair Castle, where you are likely to be welcomed by a genuine piper. Better still, head up to Loch Tummel – where the Queen’s View affords spectacular vistas over lochs and hills all the way to Glencoe.

To stand alone and see not a hint of human habitation for 360 degrees is a humbling and revitalising experience. Even for a lightweight like me.

& For details of where to go, and all Perth 800 events, go to perthshire.co.uk For more on the Amber Festival, go to perthshireamber.com * Where to stay Town: Right in the heart of Perth, the stone-built Ramada Perth is slick and comfortable, but with all sorts of eccentric twists – as might be expected from a converted watermill. Its stone walls and low beams give it a cosy charm – as does its preserved waterwheel. And its full Scottish breakfast will keep you going all day.

ramadajarvis.co.uk/hotels/perth 0844 815 9105 * Where to stay Country: Satisfy all your Highland fantasies by treating yourself to a night in a real castle – the Athol Palace, in Pitlochry. Okay, it was actually built by the Victorians as a spa resort, but it certainly looks, and feels, the part. Heck, this sprawling hilltop mansion even boasts its own museum – as well as a putting green, Japanese garden and hunting lodge-style bar – complete with roaring fire and stag antlers.

athollpalace.com 01796 472400