ANGELA SWANN heads west to rediscover the golden age of Rail travel.

Not so long ago, in the glory days of rail travel, nothing reeked of glamour more than first-class dining on a train.

Despite never having experienced it (a British Rail sausage roll in cattle class doesn’t qualify), I always found myself suffering a touch of wistful nostalgia when watching the film idols of yesteryear supping in luxury aboard delightfully old-fashioned Pullman carriages.

Ok, so diners on trains in the movies generally end up being shot, stabbed, poisoned or thrown off at high speed – but, come on, what a way to go.

Thankfully, none of these things happened to my sister and I when we joined the Heart of Wales Wanderer, a day trip along “the line that time forgot”, organised by Pathfinder Tours.

Pathfinder started more than 30 years ago and now runs about 30 tours and excursions by rail every year, including steam-hauled trips, tours along the famous Carlisle to Settle line, scenic routes through the Lake District and excursions into the West Country.

We joined the train at Banbury, midway through a series of pick-ups that started in Eastleigh at a ridiculously early hour and included Didcot Parkway, Banbury, Oxford and then on up to Birmingham.

Sinking into our plush premier class seats, we couldn’t resist a titter of glee as we surveyed the elegantly laid table, complete with flowers and table lamp, and perused the menu for the day.

Served by competent and jovial waiters – with enviable balance – from Frying Scotsman Catering Services, we sipped Buck’s Fizz and tucked into a full English breakfast as the train made its way down through Cheltenham and on, under the Severn Bridge, along the south coast of Wales.

Reaching Swansea, we turned north to join the single-track Heart of Wales line and watched as the rugged landscape opened up left and right, passing through rural stops closed down in the 1960s and 70s, which loomed into and out of view like ghost stations.

After a light lunch and with plenty of tea and coffee to sustain us, the train climbed towards the snowy peak of Sugar Loaf mountain and through a long tunnel – where I half expected the lights to go out and things to take an Agatha Christie-esque turn with a blood-curdling scream.

But no, we all arrived safely for our mid-afternoon break in Llandrindod Wells, where two-and-a-half hours was more than enough time for a brisk walk to the spa and a tour of the shops.

Back on the train, the scene was set for a sumptuous four-course silver service meal, heralded by the delicious aroma of roast lamb.

As the skies darkened and we headed north across the picturesque Knucklas Viaduct to loop around Shrewsbury and back towards home, we relaxed and enjoyed fine food and drink, desperately trying to look sophisticated and not giggle in delight as the waiters came gliding through the carriage armed with silver soup tureens and vast platters.

Chatting to the other passengers it soon became apparent many had been on tours with Pathfinder before and made it an annual treat.

We were supplied with plenty of information on the route, including snippets of history, and – old-fashioned though the service was – the staff were more than happy to cater for our table companion’s special diet.

All in all, we spent 13 hours in our seats – and it went in the blink of an eye.

As Peter Watts, general manager of Pathfinder Tours, put it: “We enjoy these tours as much as our passengers – it’s like a party on a train.”

* Premier class seats, which include Pullman-style breakfast, light lunch, a silver service four-course meal and complimentary drinks and chocolates, cost £169 each.

The tour also offers standard class and first class plus seats and a buffet service with real ale.

Pathfinder trains will depart from Oxford and Banbury to the scenic Settle & Carlisle Line on Saturday, July 31, and to York and also Hartlepool for the Tall Ships Display on Saturday, August 7. Visit pathindertours.co.uk, email office@pathfindertours.co.uk or call 01453 835414 or 01453 834477