A lust for Fife

I was hanging from a rattling steel chain anchored to a vertical volcanic crag. Ahead, and below, was a sheer drop down to fractured rocks, battered by the aquamarine waters of the Firth of Forth Behind me was a dizzying horizontal scramble along the overhanging cliff face, with just another chain and a few rough-hewn footholds to save me from an undignified, though admittedly spectacular, tumble on to the boulders below.

No matter how daunting the drop, it made sense to keep going.

The 5km long Elie Chainwalk at Kincraig Point is a highpoint of one of Scotland’s most beautiful, though little known walks – the Fife Coastal Path.

Hammered into the previously inaccessible cliffside in the 1920s, this series of seven horizontal and vertical chains give hardy explorers a seagull-eye’s view of this pristine stretch of shoreline – taking in beaches, rock pools, fabulous geology, and some fairytale sea caves – one of which is rumoured to have housed a dragon.

It’s easy to believe. The cliffs surrounding it are made up of the same geometrical basalt columns which created the famous Giant’s Causeway. They are mystical and otherworldly – looking more like the intricately carved walls of a cathedral, than the creation of a long-since extinct volcano.

Completed seven years ago, the coastal path stretches for 150km along the shore of what around here is known as the Kingdom of Fife – from the iconic Forth Rail Bridge, over the water from Edinburgh, to the Tay Bridge to the north.

It takes in quaint fishing villages, ruined castles, grassy dunes, world famous golf courses (this after all, is where they invented the game), great restaurants, empty beaches and lots and lots of nature. It’s no surprise that Fife was home to the real Robinson Crusoe – one Alexander Selkirk.

One man who knows this rugged corner of eastern Scotland better than almost anyone is Tony Wilson, ranger with the Fife Coast and Countryside Trust.

“The attraction is obvious,” he enthuses, pointing out diving seabirds, while simultaneously plucking edible, and quite delicious, herbs from the dunes.

“It has an incredible combination of views, wildlife and history. It’s also one of the sunniest and warmest parts of Scotland. So the weather is always lovely!” he adds with a smile and a wink.

The shoreline, which at this time of year can feel almost Mediterranean, is a nature lover’s dream – featuring heaths watched over by skylarks and buzzards, carpets of wildflowers, and teaming rockpools.

A gaze offshore, meanwhile, reveals a wildlife paradise. Seals and dolphins play in the clear water, and seabird colonies blanket craggy islands – with the world’s greatest gannet colony on the gleaming white Bass Rock, and puffins, shag and guillemots on the enigmatic Isle of May – once the base of early Christian missionaries (you can get a boat out to the island from the olde worlde ‘East Neuk’ port of Anstruther).

“This is one of the world’s hotspots for breeding birds,” adds Tony. “You can also see seals, dolphins and even whales.

“We have one of the biggest puffin breeding colonies, with 150,000 birds on the Isle of May, and the reason Bass Rock looks gleaming white is because it is home to 60,000 gannets – and their associated poop!”

Probably the best-known spot on the coast is the lovely old university town of St Andrews.

The presence of a prestigious educational establishment, whose students have included Prince William, lend the town a well-healed sophisticated air. But the so-called Royal Burgh remains, at heart, a traditional Fife town, presided over by the ruins of its castle and the largest cathedral north of the border.

But it’s not just walkers and history buffs who flock to St Andrews. This is, of course, the home of golf. Little balls have been whacked around here for over 600 years. And this is one town where Argyle sweaters are never out of style.

There are 99 holes of golf on the Links – including that golfers’ mecca, The Old Course. But there are six other courses – all public, and suitable for players of all abilities.

Being a golfing virgin, I decided to follow in the footsteps of Tiger Woods. Though, with a green fee of £130 a throw for the Old Course, I instead opted for the 18-hole putting green which sits right alongside it – known, rather intimidatingly, as The Himalayas.

With its grassy peaks and steep valleys, the name is appropriate. And at a cost of only £2, and no waiting list, there really is nothing to stop you donning your plus fours.

Heck, they’ll even lend you clubs and balls.

After showing your prowess (or, in my case, utter lack of hand-eye-coordination), you are advised to seek liquid refreshment in one of the town’s old pubs. And then eat.

Eating is a passion in this part of Scotland; an obsession even.

And for gastronomes it offers an embarrassment of riches. It may look like a sleepy backwater, but when it comes to fine dining there are few rivals.

Among the best is the five-star Peat Inn, near Cupar, where immaculately presented local produce is served up among homely surroundings and a blazing log fire.

On a similar level is the Michelin-starred Sangsters, a tiny operation run by chef Bruce Sangster and his wife, an oyster shell’s throw from the beach in sleepy Elie; and last year’s Good Food Guide UK Seafood Restaurant of the Year The Cellar in Anstruther (three AA Rosettes).

Another foodie bolthole, at the very start of the trail, under the bulk of the Forth Rail Bridge, is The Wee Restaurant – which holds a Michelin Bib Gourmand for its reasonably priced quality food.

For something more homely, however, don’t miss the legendary Anstruther Fish Bar – which proudly boasts of its accolade of Seafish’s Fish and Chip Shop of the Year. The fish is so fresh it’s practically flipping on the plate.

And if you fancy something different, do not miss the battered haggis. A word of warning though… don’t even think of asking for a deep-fried Mars Bar; this is the Ritz of chippies – as evidenced by the queue snaking along the quayside.

Run by former-fisherman Robert Smith and his glamorous wife Alison, satisfied customers have included Tom Hanks, snooker player Stephen Hendry, local songstress KT Tunstall, and one Camilla Parker Bowles.

It even has an award for its more than 20 varieties of homemade icecream.

And if that isn’t worth hanging from a steel chain for, I don’t know what is!

Where to Stay: The Inn at Lathones, Largoward – 400 year-old inn with live music and a resident ghost. See the website theinn.co.uk Fairmont, St. Andrews – luxury beachside hotel, spa and golf course.

See fairmont.com/stAndrews Where to eat Sangsters, Elie – sangsters.co.uk The Cellar, Anstruther – cellaranstruther.co.uk The Peat Inn, Cupar – thepeatinn.co.uk Anstruther Fish Bar – anstrutherfishbar.co.uk The Wee Restaurant, North Queensferry – theweerestaurant.co.uk Further inform,ation: For more on walking in Scotland, go to visitscotland.com/perfectwalks Visit eatscotland.com to download 10 walks for food lovers. There is also information on Scottish food festivals and food trails as well as details of over 600 restaurants.

Homecoming Scotland 2009 is a year-long celebration of Scottish culture, heritage and some of the many great contributions Scotland has given the world. Check out homecomingscotland2009.com