Water world to explore

As a representative of the Estacion Nautica Mar Menor he has made it his life's work to sell the obvious attractions of one of the loveliest corners of Europe — the watersports haven of Spain's Costa Calida (Warm Coast).

"It is beautiful," he beams, gazing out at the still waters of the huge turquoise Mar Menor coastal lagoon, still basking in sunshine well into the autumn.

"The watersports are excellent, the food is great — and it never rains."

Tanned and smiling, he laughs as he describes the year-round blue skies and almost complete lack of precipitation, relishing the envy of this English traveller — still pasty after another washed-out British summer.

"We have good restaurants, nice beaches, excellent hotels and you can dive, sail, canoe, jet-ski and windsurf."

The quality of watersports here is a local obsession. And it is one of the main reasons that lovers of the life aquatic head straight for this fascinating corner of Murcia — an arid and mountainous adventure lover's paradise, which has very little in common with the busier package resort 'costas' to the north and south.

The area's attraction to watersports enthusiasts is obvious, due in no small part to the fact it boasts two seas — the Mediterranean, the coast of which here is wild, rugged and partly protected as a marine reserve — and the Mar Menor.

Meaning literally 'small sea', the Mar Menor is a 170-square kilometre expanse of warm, shallow water — the largest saltwater lagoon in Europe.

Sheltered, impossibly clear and blessed with gentle breezes, it is the perfect spot to indulge in your favourite water-based pursuit. Or, even better, learn a new one.

It is separated from the Med by a ludicrously narrow, and heavily built-up strip of beach, called La Manga ('the sleeve') itself a by-word for high-living, top-end sport and fun.

While La Manga may draw in golfers and sun-worshippers, the real fun is to be had away from the land, out on the waves. Or, in my case, beneath the waves.

The rocky Mediterranean coast around the treacherous, but beautiful Cabo de Palos is an underwater wonderland, and offers probably the best diving in Europe.

Novices can learn in perfect surroundings and in just three days pick up a Padi (Professional Association of Diving Instructors) open water diver certificate, which is your springboard to a life of scuba.

The accomplished diver, meanwhile, can get stuck in straight away, exploring wrecks and marine reserves — such as the notorious ships' graveyard of the Islas Hormigas.

Teaming up with a crew from the Planeta Azul dive school, in the port of Cabo de Palos, we were kitted out with wetsuits and diving gear, given a quick but thorough safety briefing, and were soon skimming over the water to a sheltered cove, where we were thrown in at the deep end.

I had never quite understood the missionary zeal of divers, and their obsession with flying around the world to see, fish, more fish, and seaweed. Until now.

The sense of freedom from being able to breathe underwater is indescribable. And, even as a novice, with the security of a calm instructor at my side, I was soon living out my Jacques Cousteau fantasies. I darted about like an excitable toddler high on Sunny Delight — seeing this new world for the first time... rolling with shoals of anchovies, following an octopus, coming face-to face with curious sea bass, and brushing though rich underwater meadows of vividly-coloured vegetation.

I came out grinning, admitting it had been one of the most awesome experiences of my life.

The rest of the group laughed... but, one by one, all came back with identical smiles and sentiments.

You would have to be emotionally dead not to be touched by the exhilaration of getting so close to nature, in such a strange and alien environment. And I, for one, was hooked — to the delight of the passionately enthusiastic instructors.

Fortunately, it couldn't be easier to take to the water. There are schools and hire companies all around the area — from the ultra-serious Olympic training centre of Infanta Cristina, to those catering for newcomers like me.

And Dionisio and his amigos at the Estacion Nautica maintain standards of quality, not only of watersports but of hotels, restaurants, and health and beauty centres (the water and its sands has proven health-giving properties, and is particularly sought after by those with rheumatism — who can be seen waddling along the beach caked in mineral-rich mud).

Dionisio admits his personal passion is jet skiing, and wastes no time getting out on the lagoon. I do likewise and am soon shattering the peace of the Murcian morning.

It takes moments to master handling a jet ski, and in no time I am weaving across the water at full throttle, bouncing over the wake of passing boats, and sending up sheets of spray.

The machines can reach 65kmh. It seems faster, and leaves you with the kind of fixed grin that you might expect from a cut-price facelift.

Yes, they may be irritating to those seeking a bit of solitude, but you can't argue with the rush. The sensation is heady — a mix of adrenaline, freedom and satisfaction at having all that water all to yourself.

Keen to see the lagoon from as many different viewpoints as possible, I swapped the jet for a canoe, and along with my boatmate Tony, paddled out to take a closer look at one of the rocky islands which punctuate the lagoon.

On a roll — and because we could — we then traded up to a sailing dinghy.

We should have stuck with the canoe.

So idyllic were the conditions, there just wasn't the wind to take us anywhere, the Mar Menor's fabled breezes being as elusive as my nautical ability. Nelson, Drake and generations of our seagoing countrymen would have been appalled.

And, to make it worse, despite the wind, there were enough crafty gusts to send the boom swinging wildly on a succession of collision courses with my head.

Obviously time for some lessons. Next time though. On this occasion the lure of the Mar Menor's sublime seafood proved too much.

And we retired early, to munch prawns, sip fruity red wine and plan our next voyage on this lovely patch of watery heaven.

"People are starting to realise how good it is here," says Dionisio, who hails from the arid interior of Spain.

"They love the space and the opportunities here. It has the best diving in Europe, along with everything else.

"People see how good it is. I'll never leave."

'I came out grinning, admitting it had been one of the most awesome experiences of my life'

TRAVEL PLAN TIM Hughes flew to Murcia on Monarch Airlines. Flights leave from Birmingham and Luton.

He stayed at the Thalasia Hotel, in San Pedro del Pinatar, which also also features a large spa and beauty centre.

Top places to eat include the very reasonably priced gourmet hotspots of Hotel Traina and La Casa del Reloj, in San Pedro del Pinatar.

For freshly-caught seafood, head to the homely El Pez Rojo on the quayside at Cabo de Palos, where you can feast on lobster, gorgeous local tapas and the Murcian variation of Paella — caldero, made of rice, fish and fiery ñora pepper.