Canterbury Tale

Knocking on a very large and very old door to be allowed admittance to the hotel precincts after a night’s enjoyment in Canterbury, there it stands. All lit up. It’s probably not on show on purpose for those few people staying in the guest centre, but it’s a striking welcome back to your digs. I’d defy anyone not to be impressed.

The Canterbury Cathedral Lodge is relatively new. The building itself was originally set up for visiting students, but obviously the opportunity to open it up to tourists was too good to turn down.

And it is fairly impressive to drop into conversation that you’ll be staying at Canterbury Cathedral.

But that is probably as far as the wow factor goes with the accommodation. That is not a criticism because it is a perfectly acceptable, clean and modern place to stay, but it is at the more functional end of the market.

If only they would use the cathedral bells as an alarm call.

And apart from a Gideon bible, there is nothing else really to remind you that you are staying in a Church facility. Well, nothing apart from the cradle of the Anglican world towering over the complex.

Canterbury is a lovely city that has managed to retain its own identity and charm, at least within its ringroad.

Whereas too many of the towns and cities you will take a break in have seen their centres homogenised by High Street chains, Canterbury has the feel of a proper, independent place.

The tourist attractions reflect this. The blunter correspondent might call them tired and it is true they are hardly cutting edge. But for a proper feel of Canterbury’s history over a long weekend — and frankly the city for all its charm is only worth a weekend unless you’re going to strike out into the countryside — they suffice.

Canterbury Tales is a case in point. Hooked into the centre’s soundsystem, you wind your way around the building listening to waxworks from Chaucer’s efforts telling their amusing stories. It’s hardly hi-tech but worth an hour.

Canterbury is a compact city. One of its little charms is the Canterbury Historic River Tours (now in their 76th year) where you get an engaging tour along the Stour river. Like a lot of things in the city, it’s not long but it is personable and charming.

Part of the city’s charm is strolling among the winding streets off the High Street and coming across little attractions, restaurants or age-old pubs.

The nightlife is hardly one of rows of chain pubs pumping out music and children pumping in alcopops until they are sick.

We found several comfortable local pubs dating back the odd few centuries where it was relaxed and welcoming for a before-dinner or after dinner drink. The best was the 16th century Simple Simon’s: low ceiling, cluttered bar, gnarled locals and a drop of local bitter.

Dining in the city will cater to your demands from an upmarket Michael Caine’s through to some of the best fish and chips on offer.

Special mention goes to a small Italian called Pinocchio’s. Run by three brothers from Naples, it is a gem of a place — very authentic, although don’t make yours truly's mistake of trying out some pidgin Italian because the brothers are more than happy to engage in discourse you’ve no hope of being able to reply to.

Some may view some of the shops as tat catering to the cohorts of French schoolchildren but they give the central precinct area a feel of independence. Of proper locals. Of a proper buzzing little place comfortable with what it wants to be — not somewhere that believes it must match other tourist destinations.