It was not the most auspicious of beginnings. Due to a serious lack of Greek-speaking ability on our part, and English-speaking on our driver's, instead of rolling up to the front of the five-star hotel in style, we were somehow stuck at the rather dark service entrance.

Our driver, who bore a striking resemblance to Steven Seagal, attempted a three-point turn in the narrow space - but due to the size of the minibus and its trailer, packed with eight heavy suitcases, it soon turned into a comedy Austin Powers manoeuvre as we got more and more trapped.

However, our adventures with the luggage over, it was time to find out what Cyprus - a country about which my knowledge before my visit would have struggled to fill a postage stamp - had to offer.

For example, I had no idea half the country was occupied by the Turkish military; that the people had just elected a communist president; that not only could you swim, scuba and snorkel, you could also ski.

I thought the country was probably "a bit like a big Greek island" - not realising that the island is only a stone's throw from Lebanon, tempering the Mediterranean flavour with a distinctly Middle-Eastern influence.

In summer, Cyprus is scorched by searing heat, with temperatures easily reaching the 40s. But in March, the climate is warm and pleasant.

In the morning, the sun is shrouded in a misty haze before it burns off the clouds in the afternoon - leaving you feeling if not sun-drenched, at least gently sun-kissed.

Perfect weather, in fact, to explore and take advantage of a surprisingly varied landscape without flagging under extreme summer heat.

Pafos, our first stop, is a distinctly unlovely city, with a few gorgeous hotels - our hotel, the Almyra, among them - nestling against boring architecture with the city's ancient history obscured by modern life.

But within the urban sprawl, hidden treasures do lurk. Next to the marina, with its wealth of cheap and cheerful restaurants offering cut-price meze, is the Pafos Archaeological Site, a Unesco world heritage site.

The site dates back to the late 4th century BC, and contains mosaics and architectural remains of unparalleled quality and preservation.

Overlooking the sea, and dotted with trees, the ancient remains have a peaceful, thoughtful setting.

Here, you can truly feel a world away from the daily grind of modern-day Pafos just a few hundred metres away.

Even more impressive is the Tomb of the Kings, a couple of kilometres out of town.

The open, sprawling site offers plenty of opportunities to scramble into and out of ancient tombs, again with stunning sea views when you stop to catch your breath and reflect on this stunning island.

Ancient Cyprus continues to unfold if you travel along the coastline towards Limassol to Kourion - where a traditional Roman amphitheatre perched on the top of a hill is the main attraction.

The theatre has been brought back into use for Shakespearean productions - and a more dramatic setting is hard to imagine.

It is almost depressing to return to the neon lights of Pafos, despite the plush and gorgeous surroundings of the Almyra hotel.

Perhaps a better way to visit the sites is to stay at one of Cyprus's numerous agro-tourism houses.

It is the country's own version of rural B&B, and the places offer considerably cheaper accommodation, excellent food, and a real sense of the rural way of life.

Sitting drinking an ice-cold beer outside one of them, the Vasilia Nikoklia, with birds twittering in the background and barely a car in sight, it's hard to imagine a nicer place to stay.

In March, the frightening traffic is mostly absent and driving around the varied landscape is an unexpected pleasure.

In many villages, you can see local women making halloumi cheese, and village life is slow and peaceful, with old ladies doing their laundry by hand in their front gardens.

To properly explore, you a need a 4x4 to take on the Akamas peninsula, a stunning area where every corner offers a new glimpse of the sea.

The best beach in the south is Lara beach, where turtles go to lay their eggs at certain times of the year, and you can drive your jeep virtually up to the water's edge then jump in for a dip.

The crystal clear water is shockingly cold to begin with, but a swim in the beautiful waters is delightfully refreshing and revitalising, not to mention safe.

Cyprus prides itself on being an ideal family destination, with safe beaches, low crime levels and lots to offer kids. Among the island's most popular attractions is Paphos Bird Park - but if you have a problem with caged birds or parrots being taught to ride bicycles (no joke) I would advise steering clear.

Moving inland, the landscape changes completely as you approach the Troodos mountain ranges.

Unesco world heritage churches and monasteries dot the area, and as you get higher and higher, you could be forgiven for thinking you were in the Alps as vines give way to fir trees still carpeted with snow.

Troodos itself is like a tiny Alpine village, with the added bonus that while having a cheeky snowball fight, you can still gaze at the azure waters of the Mediterranean in the background - a bewildering contrast.

Cypriots are clearly big on food and looking around it is easy to see why.

Vines, resembling crooked, scorched fingers reaching for the sun, grow in every available space.

A casual observer will also spot lemons, oranges, olives, pomegranates, apricots, and even avocados growing.

If Kent is the garden of England, Cyprus must be the Mediterranean equivalent.

Cyprus is also full of carob trees - the pods of which are transformed into, variously, carob syrup, sweets, and even plastic.

You can also pick them from the ground where they have fallen and have a munch - the sweet, honeyed pods have a bit of an unusual aftertaste which is hard to place.

These freshly grown fruits and vegetables are reflected in the country's most popular form of eating - meze.

As many as 30 different dishes of everything from salad, to octopus, to lamb, to specially flavoured Cypriot sausage, will make their way to your table, saving the best until last.

Managing to leave space for each delicacy without finding yourself completely stuffed is an art I sadly failed to master, leaving me waddling from the table after every meal.

March and April is definitely the time to visit the island before the rush of tourists and the onslaught of overbearing heat.

Fact file: We flew with Cyprus Airways from Heathrow to Larnaca and stayed at the Almyra Hotel, in Pafos, www.almyra.com, and the Elias Beach Hotel, Limassol, www.eliasbeach.com.