Skiing is all very well, but it's the flights I always hate. If you're going to a well-known ski resort, the terminals and planes are always full of people carting their skis (and everything else snow-related) around with them, and it takes forever to board.

So frankly, I'd decided to give my annual ski excursion a miss this year and aim for somewhere where only a bikini and a pair of beach sandals were the necessary baggage.

And I almost made it to Morocco, until that is a little bird told me about a different form of transport - a kind of disco on rails ...

Consequently, I found myself heading to the Alps - the ultimate winter playground, imagining myself shushing down the slopes, basking on the deck of a chalet, supping on something sexy, and all the time surrounded by hot ski pros.

But first I had to get there and this time I chose comfort and class over speed. The new St Pancras station in London offers gorgeous architecture, a refreshing lack of queues, effortless security, and all followed by Champagne in the Premier Lounge, a dream compared to the travelling nightmare of airports.

I was travelling Eurostar and the 'voyage' to Paris was only slightly marred by the fact they didn't have any hot food. A seat in which I could fully stretch out all 34 inches of my legs made up for that blunder however.

Once in Paris it was time to find the Snow Train (what a great name!), and my rail-bound digs for the night. Compared to the Eurostar stallion, this train was a tired workhorse. Doors rattled, paint on the inside and outside was chipped, and the plastic interior rang of early 70s design.

Even more worrisome were the lager-drinking boys at the end of the carriage. Had I made a mistake, I thought? Was this train for stag parties and rugby clubs heading out for a cheap time on the mountains?

Thankfully, my salvation came in the form of a bright, George Clooney-esque, Rail Europe employee by the name of Bob. He said to get the true Snow Train experience you had to go to the disco.

And with me a girlie, how could I say no? Stepping into that bar car changed my entire opinion. This was not the loud laddish scene I was expecting; this was a mix of different people with one goal in mind - skiing... oh, and making the journey there as pleasant as possible.

There were snow train veteran 60-somethings from London, chatting to pretty young things on their first outing; a group from Glaxo Smith Kline were enjoying the disco, while men and women on the pull searched for some company.

It was very social. In fact it might be the solution to Oxford's commuting woes. On packed trains First Great Western should follow the Snow Train: add music, a strobe light and a bar, and a busy train turns into a decent night out.

However, sometime after 1am I figured I should rest for the next day. I went straight to sleep and even sacrificed a morning cup of tea for an extra half hour in my bunk.

But then I awoke properly to (OH MY GOD!!!) snow-capped mountains, and with only a few minutes until my stop, I quickly dressed and gathered my bags.

The train stopped in Aime and I got my first breath of mountain air. It was only a short journey up the mountain from Aime to Belle Plagne, a small resort village, where I was staying. I had an apartment in Nereides, a Pierre and Vacance resort. The apartment was large enough for two couples or a couple with children.

I was tired, hungry and the giant king size bed was calling my name, but then on the other hand, so was my ski instructor and guide for the day - a handsome modern-day mountain man who went by the name of ... Fred. Mmmm.

I was pretty good at skiing about 10 years back and was eager to show Fred my skills. So I followed him, trying to exude as much style as he displayed; that is until it got a bit steeper and I ended up hurtling myself down the mountain, end over end, losing hat, sunglasses, skis, and poles along the way.

By the time I came to rest I was halfway down the slope, not quite the way I had planned, but I was still in one piece. And Fred was smiling.

He asked if I was OK and wanted to continue? Of course, I said. I'm not allowing this mountain to beat me. So off we went again and this time we finally made it to the bottom of the slope, with Fred looking at me, long and hard.

"Errr ... want some advice?" he inquired, that gorgeous French accent dribbling like melted chocolate in to my ears. I looked at my bumps and bruises. "I guess so," I said.

And so the lessons began. I made slow and steady progress and eventually got into the rhythm. At which time my stomach was growling so much it didn't take the sensitive ears of my keen mountain guide to hear its grumblings.

It was time to break, but we were no longer in La Plagne. We had skied over the mountain on to the sunny Champagny side, and that's where we would dine, at Chalet Verdon Sud, a restaurant with 'altitude'.

I chose the Saturday special, pork and veggies stewed with polenta, while Fred plumped for a big steak. We split a half bottle of red wine. Not surprisingly, the wine loosened Fred's tongue and soon I had him speaking on his favourite topic - the mountain. Fred's old school philosophy about the mountain drives his life.

Work with the mountain. It's not something to escape down as fast as you can. Enjoy it, the scenery, the turns, curves and bumps.

As a result, my skiing dramatically improved. Soon I was even able to follow Fred's curves down even the steepest of slopes.

The day ended as the sun dropped behind the mountain. Fred smiled in approval at how far I had come.

The sky was going a brilliant red. We said our 'bonsoirs' and I went back to my apartment to rest for my final day in this winter haven. Good old Fred.

PRICES in Les Nereides start at £680 for a one bedroom apartment for five people in April, or £810 in March. For further information. call 0870 026 7144 or contact www.pv-holidays/ski THERE are now special offers on selected departures of the Snow Train. Leaving early on Friday evening from London St Pancras, the Snow Train travels overnight to the French Alps, arriving early on Saturday morning.

With return trains leaving on the following Saturday evening, Snow Train passengers can gain an extra two days on the slopes.

Special fares for Feb 29 are £229pp, March 21, £279, and March 28 £259. For further information, call 0844 848 4071 or visit www.raileurope.co.uk