At 75 per cent ABV, the strongest rum in Grenada is so potent that it could fuel an aircraft - although no spirits stronger than 69 per cent must leave the island.

But the humidity (Grenada lies only 12 degrees shy of the Equator) means most Brits will probably rely on beer to stave off the 30C heat. Grenada is ideal for people who want to blend the lazy delights of a beach holiday with trekking, cycling or driving through volcanic highlands where hairpin bends offer views of lush valleys, sprinkled with flowers and waterfalls spilling into small lakes fringed with palms. The island, which is a 21-mile- long tapestry of thickets, rainforest and woodlands, rises to 2,757ft at Mt St Catherine in the north but the south-west is the tourist heartland, where Grand Anse beach sweeps towards the capital of St George's.

The hills above the horseshoe-shaped bay of St George's are often dotted with clouds. The climate is marked by 'dry' (principally January to May) and 'wet' seasons, but the terms are misleading: it would be wrong to think of the wet season as racked by monsoons.

When I visited earlier this month, there were roof-rattling downpours, but mostly before dawn, and by 9am it was difficult to believe the warm tranquillity had been disrupted. Rather like Grenada itself.

In September 2004, the island (which suffers less from hurricanes than its neighbours) was blasted by Ivan the Terrible', killing 39. Yet these days the only sign of the storm's aftermath is the sight of damaged churches. Religion may loom large here (albeit with a twist - I caught a Thought for the Day radio programme which was sponsored by a construction company and followed by an Eminem track), but repairing hotels was a higher priority, and the upheaval offered developers the chance to upgrade their resorts.

I stayed at two hotels, owned by brothers Arnold and Royston Hopkin - firstly, Blue Horizons, where self-catering chalets nestle on the hillside overlooking Grand Anse beach, and Spice Island, so close to the surf that the only thing between my room and the white sand was a patio.

Blue Horizons' accommodation is posh but snug, sited in beautiful grounds that host 21 species of birds. You can shop at a nearby supermarket or eat at La Belle Creole restaurant (try the seared tuna if you do).

Meanwhile at Spice Island, there's a range of five-star accommodation, with some suites even boasting their own swimming pools and (inexplicably) saunas. If designer styling is your thing, you'll enjoy the chic Philippe Starck interiors as much as the other features, such as a spa and massage centre, children's activity centre, gym and the excellent restaurant Oliver's, where executive chef Mark Banthorpe's team fuse healthy, homely elements such as pigeon peas and Caribbean spinach with ornate meat and seafood concoctions.

Guests can enjoy snorkelling, kayaking or sailing catamarans as part of their stay at both sites. But despite the charms of Grand Anse, heading further afield is a must, be it to meander around St George's, visit a spice plantation, hike along a forest trail or glimpse places like the cliffs at Sauteurs, where native Caribs leapt to their death rather than surrender to the Spaniards.

The best way to get around is in one of the numerous minibuses, plastered with slogans and throbbing with dancehall or reggae beats, that cost about £1 to go halfway up the coast. You won't usually need to hail a cab; you'll probably hear the driver's mate, leaning out of the side door or the passenger seat, yelling "Hey!", as he waves at you frantically.

The minibuses are invariably Japanese, as are most vehicles in Grenada; they're imported secondhand because both the Japanese and Grenadians drive on the left, which is handy for Brits wanting to hire a car. The buses are frequent, particularly in St George's. However, while islanders usually walk slow, they drive fast - hence the speedbumps everywhere. Buckle up, and try not to worry if the driver chats on his mobile phone as the van rumbles past folk sitting outside pastel-painted homes and kerbstones daubed with the national colours. The incessant honking isn't road rage, by the way; normally it's because the driver has spotted a friend or a pretty girl.

With the lowest crime rate in the Caribbean, you'll be unlucky to come to harm on the island. Concentrate instead on avoiding sunburn, and use an insect spray containing DEET (the mosquitoes aren't malarial, but there is a VERY small risk of dengue fever).

Last, but not least, don't shop in the mall next to the dock in St George's: you'll pay handsomely for being too lazy to walk to a grocery store. Remember, you're not an American, after all.

THINGS TO DO: Stroll around St George's: the best thing is Fort George, overlooking the harbour. Fort Frederick, a little further out, also offers striking views.

Scuba dive: beginners, including children as young as 12, can descend to 40ft. Below the waves lie reefs, shipwrecks and an underwater sculpture park.

Hire a guide such as Mandoo: the former Merchant Navy seaman, always in his trademark white suit, knows almost everyone on the island as well as numerous anecdotes.

Visit the coastal town of Gouyave on Friday night to enjoy the fish fry', when stallholders cook in the streets as steel bands play.

See the rum distillery near Lake Antoine, which has been going since 1785, or a spice plantation such as Belmont.

Cycle along rainforest trails with a company such as Trailblazers, and swim in the pools below waterfalls.

See the abandoned Pearls airport, where cows now graze among rusting aeroplanes.

Float downstream with a three-hour River Tubing tour.

If you're a Hash House Harrier (it's a sort of running and drinking club) you might join a hashing course; Arnold Hopkin, co-owner of Blue Horizons, is a keen hasher'.

Take a catamaran to the sleepy island of Carriacou, also part of Grenada Go game fishing for species such as blue marlin.

CLAIMS TO FAME:Racing driver Lewis Hamilton's relatives live here. Victoria Cross-winning soldier Johnson Beharry is Grenadian. Pop star Billy Ocean has a recording studio on the island. Celebrity chef Gary Rhodes buys organic chocolate from Grenada.

ACCOMMODATION: Paul Stammers enjoyed a holiday with Tropic Breeze, which offers seven nights at Blue Horizons Garden Resort from £759 pp, based on two adults sharing a Superior Studio on a room-only basis. Tropic Breeze offers seven nights at Spice Island Beach Resort from £1499 pp based on two adults sharing an Oleander Oceanview/Garden Suite on an all-inclusive basis. Prices include return economy flights with British Airways from Gatwick based on travel from May 2008. Book before January 31, 2008 for stays between May 1 and December 15, 2008, and receive a complimentary Swedish massage for two. Find out more from Tropic Breeze on 01752 873377 or visit www.tropicbreeze.co.uk or Spice Island Beach Resort; www.spicebeachresort.com, 001 473 444 4258/4423; Blue Horizons Garden Resort; www.grenadabluehorizons.com or 001 473 444 4316