On October 15, London’s National Gallery opens a blockbuster Rembrandt exhibition, The Late Works. Sarah Marshall visits Amsterdam, where the 17th century artist lived and worked

As he gazes tenderly at the young woman, one arm resting on her shoulder, she clasps his other hand to her chest, appearing to reciprocate his affection.

The Jewish Bride, which now belongs to the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam, may be overshadowed by Rembrandt's better known The Night Watch, but when Vincent Van Gogh first saw the painting in 1885, he proclaimed that he would gladly give up 10 years of his life to sit in front of it for a fortnight with only a crust of dry bread to eat.

The masterpiece, painted in 1665, will be exhibited in London for three months as part of a blockbuster exhibition at the National Gallery, examining the Dutch Master’s turbulent but creative later years. Forty paintings (along with drawings and prints) will be on display, created from the 1650s until the artist's death in 1669, aged 63.

But along with celebrating Rembrandt’s greatness as an artist, the collection also casts a spotlight on the society and culture of a city that helped shape the Dutch Golden Age.

Following on from last year’s reopening of the Rijksmuseum after a 10-year renovation, Amsterdam consolidates its position as one of the most important artistic hubs in Europe.

Taking a boat tour along the criss-crossing canals allows me the opportunity to study the towering town houses that crowd the street like a wonky set of incisors. Decorated with elaborate coats of arms, many belonged to wealthy merchants and constituted prime real estate. So for Rembrandt to purchase his property on the corner of Jodenbreestraat for 13,000 guilders in 1639, he was clearly enjoying success.

In reality, the artist went bankrupt in 1656 and moved to a more modest property in Rozengracht. But an inventory of his belongings was used to reconstruct the house which now operates as The Rembrandt House Museum, home to the biggest collection of Rembrandt etchings.

The Salon is filled with historical paintings by Pieter Lastman, Hercules Segers and Jan Lievens.

Upstairs is a ramshackle collection of dusty curios; exotic shells, brain coral, feather headdress, armadillo shell and lion skin were once prized possessions of the artist.

One of the artist’s greatest concerns was that his paintings would look good even after 400 years, and he would employ tricks such as applying a pine tree resin varnish to finished works, to collect dust and dirt, which could then be removed with turpentine.

His foresight clearly paid off, and whereas many of Van Gogh’s paintings have faded, works by Rembrandt still impress with bold colours. In the 17th century, many artists would purchase ground pigments from the windmills in the countryside outside Amsterdam. At one time, there were 1,000 mills in operation, used to make paper, wood, oil and many other products, but now, only a handful remain as part of a historical reconstruction at Zaanse Schans, a 40-minute bus ride from the city, on the banks of the Zaan river.

I hear the mills before I see them; heavy sails tug at creaking boards, paddling through the air like a fleet of fully-rigged barques on the high seas.

Having resumed production 10 years ago, De Kat claims to be the world’s only remaining wind-powered dye mill selling antique paints. Parts of this particular mill date back to 1720, and watching cogs turning and heavy stones grinding is a reminder of the work, time and effort that went into producing a piece of art.

Many of those finished works would hang on the walls of Amsterdam’s grand canal houses, such as the six 17th and 18th century properties, which have been renovated to create the new 93 room Waldorf Astoria Amsterdam hotel on Herengracht.

Oxford Mail: Smelling stations to test the different flavours used to make Bols liqueurs at The House of Bols

Amounting to much more than luxury accommodation, the property offers a glimpse into the past with a lavish entrance hall, dominated by a Louis XIV-style wooden staircase.

The excellent Librije’s Zusje restaurant, created in partnership with the team behind three Michelin-starred De Librije, is decorated in accents of ochre and lapis lazuli, and as I sit down to a tasting menu of mind-blowing creations, I imagine I might be joined by Vermeer’s Girl With A Pearl Earring.

For the most part, Rembrandt was fortunate enough to make a decent living from his work, but by challenging conventions with his innovative use of light, shade and action, he inevitably ran into problems. Several militiamen depicted in The Night Watch, for example, were unhappy with the work and for many years, he received far fewer commissions.

But his financial difficulties didn’t end there; the troubled artist ran up debts at the Bols distillery owned by his neighbour Lucas Bols, a major shareholder in the Dutch East India Company.

Today, the House of Bols tells the story of genever, a botanic infused, malt wine based spirit, which paved the way for better known gin and has since spawned 36 liqueurs used by bartenders around the world.

The bartender fills a tulip-shaped glass with Old Geneva until the viscous liquid forms a lip overhanging the brim; this is exactly how Rembrandt would have enjoyed his tipple. The vanilla and spice drink is dangerously addictive, and I wonder why more of the artist's fine works hadn’t ended up in the possession of Lucas Bols.

But it’s a fitting tribute that one of Amsterdam’s busiest nightlife districts, Rembrandtplein, should be named in honour of the city’s most cherished resident.

ESSENTIALS
* Sarah was a guest of the Waldorf Astoria Amsterdam (waldorfastoria3.hilton.com), who offer rooms from £395 room only. A tasting menu in Librije’s Zusje costs £85, without drinks.
* easyJet (easyjet.com) flies to Amsterdam from 11 UK airports, with prices starting from £19.99 per person (one-way, including taxes and based on two people on the same booking).
* For more information on the destination, visit holland.com

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