As we stood, hesitating, outside Luna Caprese, my friend muttered: "Do you reckon they've got a one-armed bloke who washes the dishes?"

He was referring, of course, to Robin's Nest, the ITV sitcom that was broadcast from 1977-81, about a bistro that was a tad eccentric and had a fellow in the kitchen who lacked a limb.

To be sure, the gaff looked a wee bit kitsch. We'd picked it on the spur of the moment, after having hasty second thoughts about another establishment in North Parade, which shall remain nameless.

A colleague of mine rolled his eyes at hearing that I'd been to Luna Caprese, wondering what had tempted me.

The reason was simple. Although the main menu wasn't any cheaper than most eateries, we had spotted a sign by the entrance advertising an evening deal - and at £14.50 for three courses, plus coffee, it sounded too good to miss.

While the price hinted at the 1990s, inside the venue, the decor doffed its cap at the 1970s. We smiled wryly at the jumbo peppermills, but there were no raffia-wrapped bottles of Chianti to be seen, to my chagrin. Several tables were occupied, and a large group nearby was clearly celebrating a birthday. Not longer after a candle on our table had been lit and we'd been provided with toasted, buttered bread, the waiters produced a cake for them and broke into melodious Italian song. It all seemed rather jolly.

Our fellow diners were mixed in age. While there was no music, other than the spontaneous chorus from the staff, the chatter made for a pleasant backdrop.

So what did you order?

We both asked for seafood soup, after I'd spent a few moments mulling over the prospect of sardines or ravioli. I asked for veal to follow and my friend opted for tuna steak. For puds, the selection was predictably 'old school'; we ended up picking ice cream and - you've guessed it - tiramisu.

Throwing caution to the wind, I requested a bottle of house white to wash it all down.

Our orders were taken briskly and without much chit-chat, but I didn't detect any gruffness.

And what did you think?

The soup was a smoothly blended concoction, sprinkled with fresh herbs. Salt was evident, but it didn't overpower the fish flavour.

My veal was a large and tender escalope, but not cooked so intensely that it fell apart at the touch of cutlery.

My friend was surprised at the size of his tuna steak, which was about an inch thick and cooked "just right".

Both our dishes came with broccoli, carrots, cauliflower and potatoes, making them decidedly filling.

A pasta of our choice, or salmon, had been among the alternatives.

As for the desserts, I was supplied with several scoops of strawberry, vanilla and chocolate ice cream, but I was slightly envious of my friend's hefty slice of tiramisu, which he polished off with gusto before we sipped very agreeable cappuccinos.

Any negative points?

Really only one: the medium-dry plonk. It wasn't the paint-stripper brew I'd feared, but at 5p shy of £14, this decidedly bog-standard drink ended up subsidising our grub.

Verdict:

Cheap, cheerful and tasty, at least on this occasion. There's clearly a reason why Luna Caprese has been in business for more than four decades.