Spice Lounge

Does Oxford really need another Indian restaurant? Not in my opinion, but if one has to open somewhere, it may as well be in Summertown, where the choice of eateries remains rather limited compared with Cowley Road or Jericho.

I visited on a friend's suggestion, and arrived without much enthusiasm, fearing the usual suspects: sloppy identikit curries, sitar music and Ikea furnishings.

The weather was still mild enough to sit out on the verandah, although the best tables - under an awning - were occupied. My friend and I had to make do with two circular small tables pushed together, but were made to feel welcome by the polite, friendly staff.

Our fellow diners were mostly smartly dressed, under 40 and drinking wine rather than beer. This was Summertown, after all. The drinks list included a fanciable claret from 2000 for £21: not bad value for a popular hot vintage, but beyond my budget. Instead we sank large bottles of Bangla beer - quite different from the usual Cobra (which was on draught here): a malty, brew rather like a Belgian ale.

Crunching poppadoms as we browsed the menu, my mood started to pick up - not least because the muted, apt background music was of an easy-listening 'louge' variety rather than the likes of Ravi Shankar (though the familiar twang would be heard later in the evening).

The menu steered diners toward more unusual choices, though it had a separate section for the old 'Indian' favourites, as if they were some kind of guilty pleasure.

Arising to answer the call of nature, I noted the decor was smart throughout, and the toilets gleamed - but then the Spice Lounge was only five weeks old when we visited.

SO WHAT DID YOU CHOOSE?

I was intrigued by the vegetarian dumplings, which haven't appeared on the Oxford curryhouse menus I've perused before, so I asked for these along with a bowl of fried rice and peas. Foolishly (as I discovered later) I also allowed myself to request a bowl of spiced beef mince and keema-sauced vegetables. My friend decided to sample the Bangladeshi fish curry.

SO WHAT DID YOU THINK?

My friend was quick to praise his curry, which had been flavoured with ginger, green herbs and mint leaves, as deliciously fresh. He also remarked on the "fist-sized chunks of tender white fish" - though they didn't look quite that big to me.

Meanwhile my veggie dumplings were better than they had sounded - four spheres, topped with a radish cut into a sort of floral design, with assorted chopped vegetables in a spicy medium hot sauce oozing cumin and cardomom pods. The rice and peas were slightly greasy, but fragrant.

My vegetable side order proved to be a filling, al dente concoction including mangetout, baby corn and some soft sprigs of broccoli.

Like the dumplings, the dish represented good value, as there was a high proportion of veg to sauce. It was a small meal in itself, and meant that I quickly felt more than a little stuffed.

As did my friend, who managed to work his way through most, but not all, his creamy saag panir side dish, and rice with minced lamb, which he enthusiastically described as "unusual and luxurious, and not as heavy you might expect - true feast material".

Nonetheless, the waiter managed to cajole us into ordering fresh mango. The halves of tender fruit were sumptuously fresh, and cleansed the palate far more easily than kulfi ice cream would have.

The bill mounted up, but didn't include a service charge. The service was generally efficient, but we ended up with a bottle of Cobra, not a draught pint, on one occasion.

VERDICT: Better than expected, and perhaps preferable to its nearest rival, Saffron.