KATHERINE MACALISTER renews her acquaintance with an old culinary friend.

I was so behind on what was going on at Brasserie Blanc it was embarrassing. Last thing I heard Le Petit Blanc in Jericho had been bought by Loch Fyne because Raymond Blanc had overextended, and although he was still in charge of the menus and training the chefs, it was out of his hands.

But apparently, about four years ago RB had enough of this scenario, gathered some chums and financial investors together and bought it back. Brasserie Blanc has been a huge success ever since and now boasts 10 different franchises in locations from Cardiff to Milton Keynes.

I was told all of this over a glass of champagne by Brasserie Blanc’s lovely managing director and fellow investor John Lederer, while hiding my blushes in the champagne flute. Either way Brasserie Blanc was definitely overdue for a review, and as the menu is largely based around Maman Blanc’s style of cooking – gentle French traditional food – we were delighted to once more be in situ.

So what’s new? A lot actually. The decor for one has changed from that cold blue to a more welcoming warm yellow. A melting candelabra, oozing wax sits on the bar next to signed copies of all RB’s books, resembling a mini shrine to all but the most unobservant eye, but hey, as the celebrity chef eats here every Sunday just to make sure the standards aren’t slipping, who are we to judge?

We sat in the light front room overlooking Walton Street and studied the menu for far longer than was necessary, just because there was so much we wanted to try. Three girls and not a decision-maker between us, meant it took several gin and tonics before we came up with a game plan.

I went for the ‘dine with wine’ option; it was probably the wine carrot that tempted me. If someone has already done all the hard work for you, choosing the best wine to accompany each course, is all the better in my eyes.

I went for the summer vegetable soup and the risotto (two courses with wine £16), while my cohorts started with the Loch Duart salmon gravadlax (£7.25) and the Burgundian snails in garlic herb butter (£7.30) followed by the Dutch calves’ liver with colcannon mash and Marsala gravy (£16.50), and Cornish mackerel nicoise salad (£14.50). Such a lovely clean menu that doesn’t shy away from traditional French food such as snails. Neither, I’m proud to say, did the girls.

Said snails disappeared among much snorting and gasping, much like a truffle pig in an autumnal French forest. The nicoise salad and the liver were both declared quite delicious and the entire meal was a success. I have to say my food was unmemorable for two reasons.

Firstly because I was transfixed by John’s choice of wine, a chilled red, which he promised would be the best accompaniment to a summer meal, something the French adore, and which I have to say I failed utterly to appreciate, although my two friends guzzled it down with great aplomb. Instead, I whispered to my sympathetic waiter for something rather more ordinaire – a gentle rose perhaps, which we managed to hide from the flamboyant John, to spare any awkwardness.

The second reason was the chocolate soufflé with pistachio ice cream (£6.60). The ice cream alone was to die for and I immediately ordered my own portion to lick off the spoon. Nothing else even came close to it that night even though we also tried some lovely poached pear savarin and the pavlova of summer fruit (both £6.60).

Brasserie Blanc is certainly back for good. That much is evident from its four-year nemesis. No ruffles here, no drama, no fanfare, just good, honest, traditional French food. Bon appetit.

* Brasserie Blanc is at 71- 72 Walton Street, OX2 6AG.

01865 510999.