Spinach has never enjoyed a cult following, despite Paramount's attempt to promote it with the help of pug-faced maritimer Popeye.

Cynics will tell you that it wasn't spinach Popeye had stashed in his can, for despite its renowned nutritional value, the vegetable is unable to inject a sudden shot of superhuman energy.

But leaving aside daft mutterings about 'Colombian diet supplements', there is a lot to be said for spinach, and the humble broad bean too.

How should one serve these worthy, but unpopular, foods? Well, it seems the Lebanese have got the knack.

I suggested dropping by at the Liban while a vegetarian friend was visiting, as I was sure the cuisine would feature more than the dull veggie lasagne/mushroom risotto options. The waiter who took our orders claimed we'd love the vegetarian fare, and he wasn't wrong.

The restaurant, which nestles above Boswells, appears decidedly no-frills, and was both dark and muggy when we strolled in at the weekend.

Most of the tables had been arranged in long groups, but there were a few for two. Our table was by an open window, which was a relief.

Arabic music quavered overhead and a couple of people were sucking at tall, bubbling nargileh pipes.

Despite being on the murky side, there was a chirpy feel, not least because to our slight trepidation a hen party had followed us in, the lass at the centre of attention adorned with flashing adult-themed headgear.

They proved a noisy, but happy, bunch as we tucked into wedges of carrot and cucumber, bread, dips, chillis and olives which were placed on the table almost immediately.

Happily, these were on the house.

SO WHAT DID YOU ORDER?

Because it was a sultry evening, we were a smidgin lazy and seized quickly on the set meal for two, at £15 a head. The menu warned that a 10 per cent service charge would be levied.

Within a few minutes, platters arrived, laden with hummus, French beans, broad beans and pastries some filled with feta cheese, others with spinach and onions.

There was also flat bread, aromatic rice, minced lamb with fried spinach, balls of lamb with onion, spiced chicken breasts, potatoes and butterbeans. I may have missed one or two items out, but you get the idea.

WHAT DID YOU THINK?

The grub was oily and rich exactly how I like it.

Perhaps unsurprisingly, we found we were unable to polish all this delicious lot off, despite the assistance of some refreshing, but steeply-priced, lager.

As we ordered palate-cleansing mint tea to finish, I requested a takeaway bag, which I feared might not survive unscathed as the house bellydancer began leading the whooping revellers in a conga procession.

Fortunately the bag, nestling on another table, remained intact.

A colleague asked me to feature a photo of the snake-hipped young blonde, for cultural and artistic reasons, but alas this did not prove possible.

You must take my word for it that she displayed her talents admirably.

VERDICT: About average on price, but tasty, filling grub and efficient service.