True Pud

LET’S start with puddings, like the oddball 19th century philosopher Jeremy Bentham.

He preferred to tuck into dessert first and finish a meal with soup, or so I was once told. You can try asking Mr Bentham if you pop into University College London, but as he’s preserved, conversation will be limited.

The Black Boy in Milton, near Banbury, is a scrubbed wood and oak beamsy place, with an airy dining room at the back, which offers a platter of mixed puds in weenie sizes as well as conventional single servings.

Given this country’s mania with anything resembling tapas, I’m surprised not to see more pick-n-mix puds.

YUM... WHAT DID YOU HAVE?

We didn’t actually begin with desserts, but the Black Boy saves much of the fun for the sweet course, which is why I’m mentioning them first.

We tucked into half a dozen treats, laid out on a long tray: rhubarb and pannacotta; dark treacle pud; vanilla ice cream; white chocolate bread pudding, strawberry mousse and strawberry puree.

Heaven for £9.95, the rhubarb and pannacotta pairing proving that fusion food isn’t confined to the savoury spectrum.

Correct me if I’m wrong, but I believe the recipe is not unconnected with Jamie Oliver.

WERE THE OTHER DISHES AS GOOD?

Generally, yes. We were both delighted by our main courses, after much muttering and casting a frequent eye at the specials board.

Amy was torn between the duck with buttered spring greens, and chicken with pesto mash and artichokes, eventually choosing the former (£16.95), but swapping the potato cake listed for chips. These arrived as big as Jenga blocks and wonderfully fluffy – marvellous for mopping up the dark wine jus.

She declared the chunky, but relatively lean, slices the best duck she’d tasted, while I was pleased with my spiced Cajun fish (£12.95) from the specials, even if the fillets of mullet, served with boiled potatoes and a tangy sunblush tomato and rocket salad, were unexpectedly herby.

My starter of broad bean and potato soup with crème fraiche and coriander oil, served with bread, wasn’t wildly exciting for £5 – too creamy to be memorable, but my fiancée enthused about her scallops with pork belly and pea puree (£8.95): the cubes of slow-cooked meat were exceptional.

ANYTHING QUIRKY?

The folksy cartoons in the loos by a Gloucestershire artist called Oliver Preston are worth a look; there are also occasional theme nights (not in the loos).

The last event was a Brazilian night (manager Lee McCallum used to run a guesthouse in Brazil).

And while the Meat Joint at Deddington supplies some of the fare, apparently a chap who brings in the crayfish gets paid in beer.

It’s nice to think that a gastropub owned by a chain – Merchant Inns, which also runs the Lambert Arms in east Oxfordshire – has plenty of personality.

VERDICT: The Black Boy claims to offer “sensational food at sensible prices”, but the tariffs are by no means low if you stray away from the ‘classics’ selection, where the likes of fish pie with veg, or sage and Stilton sausages with mash typically cost £9.95.

However, the quality’s undeniably high and you can get £10 for two courses as part of an autumn deal, as well as two courses for children for £8.95.