Bread of Heaven

ANGELA SWANN pops out to the pub and enjoys a lot more than a pie and a pint.

It’s been tough for country pubs over the last couple of years.

Declining sales, the smoking ban and a shaky economy have combined to make running a rural village inn a bit like trying to hold back the tides.

Many have fallen by the wayside, while others have gone down the gastro pub route, which is great for foodies but not so good for villagers who just want somewhere close by to enjoy a quiet drink.

For this reason, the residents of New Yatt near Witney must have anticipated the revamp of their village inn with trepidation, the words ‘under new management’ signalling the end of everything that was familiar, no matter how dark and dingy it may have become.

And so it was to The Saddlers Bar and Restaurant, formerly the Saddlers Arms, that my husband Jim and I headed on a Saturday night, mainly to sample the food, but also to find out whether this new eatery could really become a convincing part of village life.

WHAT WERE YOUR FIRST IMPRESSIONS?

Inside has been tastefully renovated with comfy sofas and armchairs for perusing the menus and a pleasing combination of beamed ceilings, wooden floors and contemporary decor in warm tones.

There’s also a conservatory for light and airy lunches, log fires – not lit on this early September evening – and ample space between each table to ensure the only choice titbits neighbouring diners take away are those featured on the menu.

SO WHAT DID YOU HAVE?

Before I tell you what we chose I must say a word or two about the bread. Oh, the bread. Soft, warm red onion bread that I could easily have feasted on for the rest of the evening.

The chef apparently loves to experiment with new varieties and has been known to knock up mashed potato and spring onion bread as well as baking loaves and rolls for the odd salivating villager.

The intriguing menu is not heavy on detail but owner Natalie Robinson, who knows a thing or two about running restaurants after managing the famous Beetle & Wedge in Moulsford, was more than happy to explain each dish.

I started with a very tasty Poffley End carrot soup with a crumbly cheese and onion scone – Poffley End being a place near Hailey, so not many food miles clocked up there. Jim chose dolcelatte panna cotta with caramelized pear and, although dubious about the pear, found it complemented the dish perfectly.

After spotting two wooden boards groaning with huge steaks and scrummy looking homemade chips arriving at a table nearby, I decided to give my waistline a fighting chance and ordered the crispy parmesan, lemon and thyme free range chicken breast, which was delicious and cooked to perfection, as were the accompanying vegetables.

Jim had a fine mushroom, watercress and gruyere lasagne and began a lengthy chat with fellow vegetarian Natalie about why more veggie options aren’t available in restaurants as they’re easy to make, healthy, cheap... you get the drift.

As I was happily tucking into my chicken at this point – and I’m the one writing the review – we’ll leave the veggie debate for another day.

For dessert Jim was more than happy with the cheese board and I just had to try the delightfully named apple and ginger nut whim wam, which I can only describe as a cross between apple pie and custard and a trifle and tell you it left me speechless with admiration.

WHAT DID YOU THINK?

Its imaginative menu and expertly cooked and presented meals will make The Saddlers a winner with food fans looking to wile away an evening or lunchtime in pleasant surroundings.

The prices are what you would expect for qood quality dining, £11-£16.50 for a main and £4.75-£6 for a starter, while the portions themselves are deceptively filling. The service was very friendly and the steady stream of locals popping in for a pint and a chat at the bar point to a venture that will be a welcome addition to the community – although I suspect it is already.