I've always been jealous of the Portuguese.

They've got stunning landscapes, beguiling music, wonderful architecture and a happy-go-lucky approach to life.

They also have to contend with a great climate, stunning landscapes and some very decent beaches - which, while not down to design, only adds to general loveliness. They also have fabulous cuisine and it's surprising it's not more widely appreciated. But the nation's best-known staple, spicy peri-peri chicken, is fast becoming common fare in many city centres, thanks to the Nando's chain.

First arriving in Oxford with an outpost in Cowley Road, the chicken giant has set up roost on the corner of George and Gloucester Streets.

The branch still seems slightly rough around the edges, which hides the fact that it is part of a slick corporate monster.

But its international staff are friendly and ultra-efficient, happy to initiate Nando's virgins into the semi-self-serve system. The Algerian gentleman taking orders was particularly cheerful... and patient, as I ambled back to my table half-a-dozen times to check what extras my friend fancied.

One woman, seemingly a manager, seemed very lively, and her means of communicating with staff - which involved yelling orders the length of the restaurant - seemed to amuse diners.

One thing that struck me the minute I walked in, was the rather beautiful bottle sculpture above the tables. I grew fascinated with its gentle swaying, yet uneasy at the thought of all that suspended glassware, ready to drop.

WHAT ABOUT THE FOOD?

We started with pitta and houmous, which came with a mini bottle of peri-peri oil.

As for mains, well, there was really only one thing to eat: chicken. Although there are also prego steak rolls, good crunchy salads, and a choice of veggie, beanie, or roasted portobello mushroom and halloumi cheese pittas or burgers, this place is all about the 'frango' - cooked and coated in your choice of medium, hot or extra hot peri-peri, or, for the more delicate, lemon with herb or mango and lime sauces. And it's all delicious.

While Nando's proudly shouts about all its birds being British, there's no mention of them being free range. But let's be realistic. At these prices, what do you expect?

I tucked into a half chicken (extra hot) which was fabulously cooked and fun to eat - requiring more use of fingers than cutlery. I also ordered two 'regular sides' of chips and spicy rice (coleslaw, corn on the cob, garlic bread, ratatouille, sweet potato mash, and mixed leaf salad were other options), and washed it down with Superbock.

My friend asked for a civilized looking chicken burger - actually a breast fillet in a roll - (with chips and coleslaw), which, despite being of a delicate disposition, she asked for with medium peri-peri. Her plucky but foolhardy move left her dousing her burning tastebuds with cider (South African, interestingly).

A word to the wise: if you can't take the heat, start light.

AND THE ATMOSPHERE?

Busy, but relaxed. The family next to us hoisted a sleeping kid on to their bench, while lone diners seemed content to dig into their meals at the bar.

It felt cool and airy due to its minimal design, though a little claustrophobic on the benches beneath the bottle sculpture.

And here comes the warning: if you are of more than average height, be careful. My premonition of crashing glass almost came true, when, while slipping my coat on, I reached up and clobbered the bottles - beginning a terrifying Mexican wave that threatened to rain death on the diners.

Fortunately no glass fell, but it was a hairy few seconds, I can tell you...

THE BILL Houmous £2.95 Half chicken, regular chips and rice £8.50 Chicken burger with extra cheese and pineapple, regular chips and coleslaw £7.95 Super Bock £2.95 Cider £2.95 'Tax' £3.77 TOTAL £25.30