Funny how places can look completely different on separate visits - even on the same day.

The last time I was a guest at the High Table, the restaurant attached to the Eastgate hotel in Oxford's High Street, it was packed out for its launch party, and the staff struggled to cope.

But earlier that day in December, the place had managed admirably with the rather more sedate launch of the Oxfordshire Business Awards.

Hmmm. Now the dust has settled it was time for another visit. I hadn't expected it to be bursting at the seams but wondered whether I should book, just in case. I telephoned at 11.45am and there was no answer.

I needn't have worried - apart from a couple of people having a drink, the place was deserted. Background music elevated the mood slightly.

Slightly perturbed, we sat down and wondered if we could have a conversation without being overheard by the waiters or indeed the receptionist in the lobby down the corridor, as the other customers soon disappeared.

That is, apart from a young man claiming to be looking for someone, who disturbed the waiter as he picked his nose contemplatively.

The tension was broken by the arrival of the lunch menu which, at £9.95 for two courses, at least offered value for money. As we decided, we munched our way through some very pleasant bread with olive oil and balsamic vinegar.

WHAT DID YOU CHOOSE?

For mains, I had chosen the confit of Gressingham duck leg with seasonal greens and saute potatoes.

Let me translate that - this was a duck leg on cabbage and chips, presented in nouvelle cuisine style (it wasn't a big portion). That said, there was more meat than I expected and it was all quite tasty.

My companion had opted for fried trout fillets with creme fraiche potatoes. The combination of the hot fish and the cold spuds didn't really suit each other but in themselves they were fine.

We boosted the slightly meagre portions with a large bowl of green beans, which were hot and crisp. And my mood was heightened by the French dry white wine, which was excellent value at £9.50.

On to dessert. I had chosen lemon tart with cherry ice cream - very pleasant, with the lemon being neither too sharp or too sweet although the ice cream was 'delicately' flavoured (my companion declared it tasteless - meanwhile, she had opted for the white chocolate mousse, which sadly tasted of gelatine). Not great.

OH DEAR....

The service was not great either. The extraordinary time being taken was highlighted when we asked for coffees. We made the mistake of requesting a cappuccino and the waiter wrestled with the machine.

He eventually gave up and got the other guy to do it. The process took at least 15 minutes.

VERDICT: I hope the High Table is busier in the evening. If not, I fear it won't survive.