Head Chef Simon Bonwick says he cooks from the heart, so that his customers' hearts jump for joy.

It's a typically sweet statement from the chef at the Black Boys Inn, in Hurley, near Henley, who loves to talk about food and has pictures of the chefs that inspire him prominently displayed in his kitchen. His simple style doesn't let presentation get in the way of well-sourced fresh food that balances flavours with an elegance that impresses from the first mouthful.

Flavours complement each other and don't battle for dominance. Portions are judged perfectly - this is a meal you want to to savour, not to rush to clean your plate with half a mind on whether you will have room for dessert.

You will have room for dessert after a starter and a main course, but after sampling the delights on offer at the end of your meal, the chocolate with your coffee could just push you over the edge.

WHAT'S THE PLACE LIKE?

The restaurant is in a restored 16th century inn and offers accommodation for diners too. And while it is in beautiful surroundings, let's be clear - you would want to come here for the food, especially as the Black Boys Inn has been awarded a Michelin Bib Gourmand. This is a place you would feel relaxed, letting the food take centre stage.

WHAT ABOUT THE FOOD?

For starters, I had the duck rillette with toasted pain de campagne and sauce gribiche. Meaty and tasty, the flavours were a delight. My friend chose the fresh Salcombe crab with an avocado mayonnaise and crab biscuit, describing it as the finest crab dish they had ever had.

The fish is delivered daily from the Cornish coast and ingredients are sourced locally.

From the start, the exceptional quality of the food was obvious, fresh, light, and carefully presented - we both knew we would want to meet the chef.

For the main course, I chose the Cornish monkfish and sea scallops with Toulouse cassoulet and xeres vinegar. The fish and scallops had been steamed and were plump with texture and flavour, the cassoulet it rested upon provided a tasty base and the swirl of potato - think Walnut Whip, but of potato - was exquisite.

My friend chose the roasted rump of Devon lamb with garlic, parsley and thyme. Again, cooked to tender perfection, the flavour said it all with the herbs bringing out the kind of tastes lesser chefs can only aspire to.

Other options on the menu included Cornish sea bass fillet with artichokes barigoule, white beans and pan juices; braised beef cheeks in a fumet of red wine and veal sweetbread 'petit choucroute' with meaux mustard sauce.

WHAT WAS THE CHEF LIKE?

After Mr Bonwick introduced himself, we asked to see his kitchen and he seemed genuinely proud to show us around, telling us: "My cuisine attains a peak of artistry by its simplicity."

AND DESSERTS?

For dessert, we shared a hot apple tart with vanilla ice cream and caramel (it was meant for two, but hey!) and a chocolate sablee, bitter chocolate mousse and a pistachio sauce. The apple tart was light, with finely cut apples and a light pastry base. The chocolate was exquisite. Followed by coffee, chocolate, biscuits, and a pudding wine, the evening left us full, but not too stuffed.

The service was impeccable, attentive but discreet.

HOW MUCH DOES IT COST?

Well, this is one of those times when you get what you pay for. Main courses are all from £15.50 to £18.50, starters from £6.50 to £9.95. Desserts are £5.95. And that is good value when you taste just how excellent the food is.

VERDICT: If you want to sample exquisite food in a beautiful location, this is the place. It's worth the scenic drive, and every penny.

THE BILL: Duck rillette £7.50 Salcombe crab £9.95 Monkfish and scallops £18.50 Roast lamb £17.50 Desserts £5.95 each Pudding wine £7.50 Coffee for two £6.50 Bottle of red wine £22.50 TOTAL: £115.30